ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/02/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… another nice day of cool and cloud… the Nose emptied out and the Zodiac filled up.  I think it wanted to rain but didn’t, just to piss off all the climbers who are sitting around bitching about the weather!  This has been a strange spring, more like early spring than early June.  I remember one day, long ago, when I was at Pratt’s camp in C4...  he looked at the skies and said to Tom Bauman, “let’s go do the Muir, this weather is perfect”.  That was a day like today.  They went and made the 3rd ascent if I recall correctly.  So… don’t take my word for it, take Chuck’s!!  Three days in a row with no real rain on the Captain. 

Today’s report is brought to you by the Dude Brothers, Clay and Corbin Usinger, who bailed for home for a week until the weather supposedly “clears up“… suck it up Pukes! 
So remove all distractions, gag the kids, turn the dogs out and sit down with a cold one for you have the distinct pleasure of coming with me to the vertical wilds of Yosemite’s most bad ass, big wall… the Captain himself…
Today’s ElCap Report… right now…

Zodiac:  The old Porter classic is drawing them in like free beer night at the local pub.  At this moment there are two guys topping out, two solo’s Aza and Brian, a party with a super display of colors heading to Peanut tonight, another party just starting the first pitch and various others milling around the base.  Sweet!
1)  Solo Aza on the bolt ladder pitch, Zodiac.  His partner from yesterday got sick so Aza is going solo!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Climbing the Nipple pitch, Zodiac.  This team was on SSPO and one of them was injured.  Now they are healed up and trying to keep it going on the Zod.  2)  They are looking good!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Cleaning the Nipple pitch, Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Leading the Mark of Zorro pitch, Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tangerine Trip:  A party was seen on the 5th pitch as I arrived at 10am and have hustled along without any bags and only a day pack for freight!  This is your classic “push”.  No sleeping gear, etc, etc.  They are moving along rapidly and by 4pm were heading up the corners in the middle of the route.  Who are these guys?  I hope they get a sub 24 hour ascent, as they are certainly capable by the look of it.  Edit... turns out they were Alex Honnold and buddy Josh...

5)  Seventh pitch, Tangerine Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Virginia:  I spotted the boys, Pete and Leo, on the second pitch this afternoon with Leo on the sharp end of the cord.  This is his first trip on the Captain and he could benefit a lot from the tutorage of the accomplished big waller, the so called “Piton Pete“.  Of course he could also acquire some of Pete’s, other mannerisms, which might not be to his benefit!

South Seas to PO:  The old dudes have turned the trick and were seen climbing over the top this afternoon.  Marc and Markus put on a good show, climbing in good style up a route not often done by climbers of their age.
Be proud men, be very proud!  Thanks for the show!

Mescalito:  Jordan and Adam, from Thousand Oaks in SoCal, hauled some serious freight up to Stork ledge and took off on the Sea Gull pitch early in the afternoon.  They made short work of it and were headed up another pitch by the time I left.  These young, strong, lads look to be in command up there and I expect a well executed climb. 
6)  Jordan and Adam cleaning up the Sea Gull pitch on Mescalito.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Nose:  The Tazzy boy, Andrew, who has been involved in a plague of bailing partners of late, and partner, Armin from the Fatherland, were seen at the base of the last pitch as I left at 4pm.  A friend is up on top waiting to help move the freight down the EL’s, so things look good for the men.
Persistence and tenacity will take an EC climber a long way toward achieving an ascent of the Great Stone.  Big party in Tazzy tonight!!
Lower down the last team on the face, are making their way up toward the final pitch…. I have been somewhat critical of these men, but they have hung in there and worked their way through their difficulties and hopefully have learned a lot about wall climbing and themselves too.  Congratulations are in order here too, as they ran way over schedule, but didn’t fall in love with their plan, so were able to adapt to their situation and persevere.

Salathe:  The team that was on Lung Ledge last night were seen climbing all the way to and above the Alcove today.  Nice!!  Maybe the Block tonight and off tomorrow?

Blast from the Past.
7)  An important event in any climbers life… the first beer… Little Tommy Evans, 1945. Mom feeding and her sister-in-law Jean watching.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  The “Ask a Climber” program continues to educate a lot of people about climbing.  Thank goodness, as they know nothing much about it except what they see in the movies!!  As a result the Bridge is getting pretty busy these days.  We still have a good group of Bridge Rats hanging around and some have even stepped up and talked to the Tourons in a civil manner(!!!) about climbing.  Thanks guys and gals!!
We have had some beautiful sunsets here of late as the evening sky has been full of nice clouds and color.  So don’t let the talk of bad weather dampen your enthusiasm.  The Valley still rules!!  Our rep. Ken Yager is out of town, down in LA, to work on the climbing exhibit at the Autry.  Should be great!
So that’s the way it is for this day, June 2nd,  2009.
Remember:  We are all put to the test, but never in the way or at the time we expect.
Later ECP’s