ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/01/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Warm and wonderful here in the Ditch. Cooling by Monday! The action is good on the Cap with the Nose still in heavy demand. However, a lot of teams are getting off the route in a day or so, thus we await your appearance. The season is in full force now with some different stuff going down. Bigs will be making news in a short time… so you need to stay glued to the ECR for all the latest. I know, I know, you hear this and that from the various puff daddy’s who infest the Café in the morning and evenings.. what do they know? They know what they hear third hand from someone who talked to me at the Bridge!! Credibility, Son, Credibility!

Today’s ElCap Report….written just for you…unique in all the world!

Prophet: I talked with Madaleine Sorkin, who partnered with Nik Berry on his push up the route two days ago. She reported that he sent the route. He did manage to find a clever way around the infamous Leo’s Lunge and that proved the key to the route. 3^rd ascent of this route!!

Zodiac: John and Evan pushed it yesterday and spent the night on Lunar Ledge. I last saw them on Peanut Ledge at 2:30 pm today. Surely they will be off this evening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1)  Lunar Ledge Bivy.

 

　

Iron Hawk: Mark Hudon continues to move steadly along the route. If you want a detailed account of his climb then go to Supertopo.com and read his daily post titled ElCap Report.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Mark preparing to climb early this morning.

 

　

Mescalito: Jim and Cameron climbed the middle of the route today and were seen fixing above the Bismarck ledge this afternoon as the shade came on. They could get off tomorrow with some effort.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  The lead below the ramp to the Bismarck Ledge.

 

　

New Dawn: The solo climber, Francis Perrault, climbed to ECT this afternoon but has not made his intentions clear as of now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Francis, climbing the last corner to ECT.

 

　

Tribal: The Old German Team is moving smartly along on the best part of the route today and tomorrow. Marc and Markus are up for keeps now!   Enjoy these great shots of them today!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Bivy ledge and Marc leading to the Carrot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6) Marc climbs the Carrot under the watchful eye of the Horse’s Head just above him.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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7)  Markus leading the last part of the Carrot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

8)  Markus catching the last light of the day on the route.

　

 

Nose: The teams from the rescue day have climbed out by now and we have a NIAD team via the Jardine slowly making their way up the route. We also had the bag team from yesterday climb from ECT to Camp 4 while I watched. The mixed team from the last couple of days climbed the Great Roof and were headed to 5 as I left.

Down below I spotted the team of three women who climbed to there yesterday in the afternoon. I think they are a Colorado crew prepping for a run at the Woman’s Nose Record. If they are who I think they are Jesse, Prairie, and Quin were making a run to Eagle and then down.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  NIAD team member waiting on the Jardine corner for his pard to finish the lead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

10)  Dolt Tower… every climbing man’s dream come true!!

 

GR to Muir: Pete Zabrok and Mark Winey are slowly grinding their way up the great slab.

In other news: Rumors abound… you will know when I can verify their veracity. Nice in the shade at the Bridge today, with lots of climbers taking some time off to relax. Mason and Brad hauled kit up the fixed lines in preparation for a multi day shot at their long term project…the direct start to Golden Gate. My Korean buddies from the Team Extreme Riders made it here today. Their route selection is still under consideration. An Ecuadorian team arrived today at the Bridge and were enthusiastically getting beta for the Nose.

So that’s the way it is for this Friday, the 1^st day of June, 2012.

My parents, Margaret and Murray Evans were married on this day in 1940. They were wonderful people who still have my deepest love, long since their passing. I owe them everything… if your parent’s are still living, send a positive email or note telling them how you feel about them.

Chow,

Tom