ElCap Report 5/31/09

ElCap Report 5/31/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… well there was no rain all day while I was at the bridge and strangely there were no climbers either.  The only action was people who were already on the wall.  There was one party on the Nose and one on SSPO.  A couple of teams with high powered climbers are headed to the Shield.  The bridge was really quiet all day.  We were expecting rain but it never came.
Today’s report is brought to you by Doug and Melissa who hung out all day. 
Today’s ECR just for you

Zodiac:  I did see a team of two guys fixing the first late in the day.  It looked dry over there so this is a good time to get on it.

SSPO:  The two old dudes were climbing to Island in the Sky as I left.  They are making steady progress and I assume it is getting colder up there as the colorful T-shirts have been covered with drab fleece pullovers. 
1)  Climbing to Island in the Sky on the PO part of the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  The two guys who arrived at ECT late in the day were seen bailing this morning and were out of sight by 12 noon.
The lead team from yesterday climbed above ECT and did a series of moves on the King Swing pitch that defied all logic and contemporary climbing techniques.  Far too ugly to describe to you.  As a result they took 6 hours to do the pitch to the ledge level with the top of the Boot.  I’ve opened a line to YOSAR just in case.
2)  King Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shield:  I did see a team headed up the Muir pitches above Mammoth.

Sunkist:  Charlie and Treavor arrived at the Bridge this afternoon with all their gear.  They went to the Shield instead of the Sunkist… so the mystery is solved… they were the ones leading the charge up the headwall the past few days!  They didn’t like the look of the Mushroom approach to Sunkist so went for the Shield.  So look back to the past few reports and you will see them as the top team of the two who were playing tag on the Shield.
3)  Charlie and Trevor, heroes of ElCap!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blast from the Past.
4)  Paul Sibley leading the Great Roof in 1971.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Tom Evans leading the Great Roof in 1983.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Do you notice anything different?  How about the huge section of the lower part that disappeared in the intervening years?

In other news:  Piton Pete has acquired a partner for his next climb… one Leo, out for his first trip up the Cap.  After the storm yesterday Pete has moved operations to Virginia so as to avoid any possible water fall problems.
EE and MOusley are about ready to blast on Tempest.
There was a party fixing on the first pitch of the NA today.
I didn’t get out to the west side but I hear the fixed lines are full of the ascending and descending.
The bears down at the bridge are getting bold now.  We looked east a few cars back, by the bear boxes and saw one on the roof of a car trying to get into a Tule box!

6)  Bear working the line up!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Little Yogi....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  On the Touron front… a guy stopped his Lexus on the bridge today so the family could get some shots, then he got out and walked over to look in the telescope.  After a time he moved off the bridge.  Where are the LEO’s when you need them!!?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Four teams reported being buzzed by lightning on top of the Cap yesterday but fortunately no direct strikes.  It goes without saying that the top of the Captain is not a place to be when the storms roll in.

So that’s the way it is for this the last day of May 2009.
I’m out… TME
 

glasses

Clint. Buy some new glasses!

bear 46

hey! could y'all leave me some s'mores on the bridge? i need something to munch while i read these awesome TRs.

thnx!

long due appreciation

i've been looking at your reports for about a month now so i guess its about time i finally show my appreciation and post something! Its been too long since I've been in the Valley and it seems like it will be some time before I get there again. But these reports keep the dream alive. Thanks from a hard working puke dreaming about being a climber puke!

Taylor

Great Roof photos

Tom,

The photos of the Great Roof look the same to me - I don't see anything broken off. Can you be more specific - maybe draw a colored line around what you think is gone?

Clint Cummins

Cheers Tom

Thanks even though it was slow... for some more than others. Thanks for all the hard work.I ran into Charlie and Treavor latter on, they were well into a table full of dead KC's strong work guys. and nice lightning stories.

Oh ya Cole says thanks for the Poster tom.

keep it up.
Doug/mel

Baby bear

That thing's gonna be trouble when he gets a little bit bigger. Pretty cute now, though.

Should I wait????

Hey Guys, planing on driving up this morning but the weather looks crappy all week. Debating if I should wait till next week to drive up... For those who are up there, what do you think? I got the time but would rather use it to climb than to wait to climb when it is dry. Also coming up solo and will be looking for a partner for a few days of free climbing prior to jumping on something... Gracias, Mike Esparza

You can't fight mother nature ....

... when she sends a daily waterfall down your intended route. Just in case I wondered if we made the right choice to change routes [since it didn't rain in the Valley today] at one point we heard thunder, and looked over to see the waterfall opening up once again right of Zodiac. The rain has been coming in from the north, hitting the summit, and running off the slabs. Virginia seems a lot drier.

Cheers,
"Pass the Pitons" Pete and Leo Gokovski

GhoulweJ

Hey Tom,
Weather and time sent us packing yesterday.
We had a great time at the bridge with you and the other climbing legends.
See you in a couple of weeks.

Awesome report!
Jay Renneberg

The Great Roof shots are cool...I've seen those two before, but

it does remind you that various pieces of the Captain do fall off from time to time. Thanks for the great report and pics.

Cheers,

Doug

Yah

Love the peek into the archives.
Great to see the picture of Charlie and Trevor. They look pretty good considering they survived a lightning strike !!!

YOSAR

Can you keep us posted on the King Swing captains? I want to hear what they did and if YOSAR actually had to come in to get these guys. I sense sarcasm the second time around but... drama and excitement factor being so high, I wanted to find out more!

Love the site, check it every night before bed, but the sad thing is, then I never have anything fun to read the next day. All other climbing sites are put to shame. Take it easy and free beers for you when I'm in town.

King Swing Captains

We didn't need help from YOSAR at any point we would've told them to bring pizza and beer. We didn't do the pitch flawlessly... true...it was our first ascent of the Nose and unlike the other 11 parties that bailed...we stuck the weather and topped out...Thanks for your concern tho! Cheers

newcastle

Tom...climbed the morning to early afternoon. Saved a Newcastle to drop off as a token to the climbing Gods...all I saw was a sign with thirsty people impersonating you......next time....

Ha

Tourons.....
Hiya Tom. Strangely quiet Wall.
Eh!