ElCap Report 5/21/11

ElCap Report 5/21/11
By Tom Evans

Yo.. Weather held today and with a high cloud base the Cap was nice and cool.  It was nice at the Bridge all day with little wind for a change.  There is a chance that some good weather is settling in now.  Another word to the wise… the boys in green were out in the Lodge parking lot last night ticketing any and all cars without Lodge parking passes.  Something like 50 tickets were written and at $50 a pop it looks like the NPS made some spending money yesterday.  So, hate to tell you but, if you are parking over night in the valley you need to park in the Apple Orchard, at Curry, or down by ElCap in the line up.  Otherwise you will stand a good chance to catching a ticket.

On that note…
Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The lads from yesterday had enough I think and retired, taking their fixed ropes with them.

Trip:  The team of three, John, Ricco, and Ian made good time on the route today and were finishing the 2nd bolt ladder as I departed around 4pm today.
Team of three finishing the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down the team of two, from yesterday, Elliot and Joseph, were climbing a little slower today and were only at the start of the 10th by 4pm.  Still they are doing fine and I expect them of be done in two more days.
Elliot and Joseph on the Trip’s 8th pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower yet is a team who just started the VA start and I am not exactly sure what their plans are but I saw them at the corner of the 4th pitch of the Trip.

Native Son:  Dave and Scott did the difficult and time consuming pitch over the Wing this morning and into the afternoon.  It looked pretty cool and I got some nice shots of the guys.  They were finishing the pitch above as I departed.  I went back at 8:30pm and they were bivied at the base of the Golden Finger of Fate.  So they picked up late in the evening.
Scott starting the lead on the Wing as Dave catches some ZZZ’s belaying.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scott getting in a few hammer blows on the Wing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scott clearing the Wing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dave cleaning the Wing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  The Great Nose route saw the thee Spanish climbers heading up the last pitch as I left today.  I didn’t see them all day, save at the end, because they were out of view above Camp 6.
One of the Spanish climbers at Camp 6.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down on the Nose I watched Partick and Scott bail from Camp 4 this morning.  They came down smartly and without difficulty.  They stayed the night at Camp 4 and surely were hosed by water streaming down the face.  I guess their resolve dissolved!
So they get the honor of BAIL OF THE DAY!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Weird Shot of the Day!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I did catch a glimpse of a team headed up above Mammoth on what looks to be the Triple Direct.  Will know more tomorrow.

Out west there are teams going on Sunkist and Lurking Fear.  I spotted a climber over on the Fear yesterday but didn’t go out west today.
Justin and Peyton hauling to Sunkist this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Very nice at the Bridge today as quite a few climbers came and went from our “End of the World” party this afternoon.  We all had a good time talking shit and just enjoying a little socializing.  As I type these lines the supposed time for the end of the world has passed… what a surprise!!!  Anyway a good excuse for a party!!  Remember… “Doubt is the beacon of the wise!”
Some of the Bridge Crew at the “End of the World Party”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s the way it is for this Saturday, the 21st Day of May, 2011... The Day the World didn’t end!!!
So you will keep getting the ElCap Report, unless my world ends sooner than expected!
Later Tom
 

The Wing

The wing was the most insane pitch I have cleaned. My jug blew off right as I transitioned to the rivets. That got the terror pumping through my viens for the rest of the pitch and into the next few... careful with those jugs boys!

-Dave