ElCap Report 5/19/12

ElCap Report 5/19/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Perfect weather so far this season here in the Valley. You had better make some plans and get your sorry butts out here. The Cap is seeing some increased action but can accommodate a lot more climbers.

That’s right …. I’m talkin to you Puke… listen up… big things happening these days and you want to be here at the scene so you can talk shit when you get geezed out like I am. So be here or you will be there!

Today’s ElCap Report … written just for you … unique in all the world!

Zodiac: Graham and Ben tried the old trick of fixing a couple of pitches into the circle but bivying down on the ledge at the end of the Black Tower pitch. Seems like a good idea…. But it took a good part of the day to jug and haul back up to the start of the Nipple. As a result, by the time I departed at 3pm they had only done that pitch and were still hauling and cleaning it. So…. Maybe it looked like a time saver but I don’t think so.. They should get another done by tonight and be off tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ben catches the first light on Zodiac this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Graham cleans the Nipple while Ben finishes hauling.

 

Lost in America: Steve Schneider and partner blasted today after fixing a few yesterday. The old master of the wide looked casual on the aid climbing. His many years of experience will make this route just another on his list. I’m sure he can’t wait to get on the “mandatory 5.10 pitch”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve catching the early light while jugging on LA.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve seen from way out west, in mid afternoon.

 

NA Wall: A team of two were seen climbing the 4th pitch this afternoon with kit in tow.

 

Mescalito: The Miller team from The SAR site was climbing the 5th as I departed today. Bud, Zack, and Pete are all Miller’s but not related.

 

Nose: The smartly dressed Austrian team continued to roll along. They are not using any particular system to increase their rate of climbing so I assume they are just out for a fun time on the Cap’s most famous line. They climbed from ECT and were last seen finishing the Pancake Flake as I departed around 3pm. Camp 5 for them tonight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Austrian team members moving across from the Boot Flake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rope gun of the day, shaking out on the Pancake Flake before moving upward toward Camp 5.

The three man team that is languishing in grey clothing climbed from ECT to Camp 4 today. 

Higher up the mixed team, invisible to me all day, were spotted at the start of the last pitch. They are off by the time I finish this report, for sure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Start of the last pitch of the Nose.

 

Lower down a wall style team climbed from Sickle to Dolt while I was there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Almost to Dolt Tower.

Lower down a couple of teams were making Dolt runs as did another team early this morning.

 

Salathe/Freerider: The wall style team climbed from the Spire to the Roof while I was at the Bridge today. They spent most of the day in shady corners that are inaccessible to my lens. I was able to get a shot from out west later in the day. They will bivy on Long Ledge tonight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Erik and Ross at the lip of the Roof Pitch on the Salathe Wall.

 

A team just sporting a small back pack appeared on the Headwall just before Erik and Ross started the Roof. I missed these guys I guess but got a few shots on the headwall.  They are Tim Klein and Jason Wells who were on their way to doing a 22 hour link up of the Salathe and Nose!!  Sweet!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Starting the Headwall, Salathe route.

 

Several teams are in the Hollow Flake region, including, a team of three comprised of Cole, Greg, and Peter. Also coming up to join in the fun were the two man, Greman team, of Hans and Sebastian who are working Freerider.

 

Aquarian: Doug and Scotty continued to move along well today and I expect them to be on Thanksgiving ledge by tomorrow afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The lads hauling and cleaning amidst some interesting dikes.

 

In other news: Holly Web returned from her residence at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon to climb the Magic Mushroom with Lorna Illingworth who has been absent from the Valley far too long.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Holly and Lorna at the Bridge about to haul kit to the base.

Finally… the big news of the day.

Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold threw down the BIG LINK UP!!

They did Freerider, Mt. Watkins South Face, and the Reg on the Dome in a startling 21:15. They started Freerider at about 10pm and were done with it in about 6.5 hours. Not bad!! Congrats to them!!!!

So that’s the way it is, for this Saturday, the 19th day of May, 2012.

See you here???

Tom

 

P.S. Tom Hyung.. Say "Hello

P.S.

Tom Hyung..

Say "Hello "to Holy..

Icegang

Hi...Tom Hyung... My Heart is

Hi...Tom Hyung...

My Heart is pumping strongly...

Also,Tensioned......

See you soon...

Icegang

Thank you for your volunteer

Thank you for your volunteer
The final pitch, nose pictures
Which is a very detailed picture
Did not see before
Thanks again

-kb-

last pitch of the nose

I like the shot of the last pitch of the nose.
Don't see that view too often.
I remember that pitch from 30 years ago...

Salathe/Nose link up

The guys in the small backpack were doing the Salathe followed by the Nose. The latest I got was they finished Salathe after starting this morning in around 9 hours and were headed up the Nose at about 5. Hoping to hear another good trip report from Tim Klein and Jason Wells! Gotta be quick if you want to catch those guys on camera. They are quite the elusive pair...

Finished!

Just got word from Tim that they finished this sweet link-up in 22 hours! Daaaammmmn! What an amazing feat for these guys...I'm not sure how they'll top this, but I bet they'll think of something. I thought their double NIAD last year in under 22 was crazy. Sponsors, go get 'em!

Very nice shots

Thanks Tom

Appreciate the pics