ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 12/31/14 Special Dawn Wall Edition Day 5

Brought to you by “Adidas Outdoor.”

By Tom Evans

Yo.. The weather got a little out of hand last night with busting winds and falling trees.  Kevin and Tommy weathered the storm and when I texted Kevin this morning he said they were going to climb in the afternoon.  Unfortunately, the road from EP was closed for most of the morning, due to fallen trees.  By noon the road was cleared and I headed to the EC Meadow to set up and get what shots I could.  The wind howled all afternoon but I was able to hide behind my ancient SUV and shoot without too much trouble.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

1)  Today Kevin and Tommy set out to do this pitch… most of the 11^th on Mescalito.  It goes free with most of it being 5.9, except for the last 20ft or so which goes at 13.c.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Tommy got the call and quickly blitzed up the 5.9 and is seen here getting into the more difficult part.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Stopping from time to time to warm his hands, Tommy quickly dispatched the pitch and then lowered back to the start of the pitch where he would belay Kevin up, in relative comfort.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Kevin is seen here climbing off the belay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  He made the 5.9 look pretty tame on some beautiful rock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Kevin stopped at the start of the serious difficulties and shook out and warmed his hands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  A bit higher Kevin found a no hands rest and got warm again then set off on the final 13.c section.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Kevin climbed well right up to the final few feet and came off just as he was making the final move.  Afterward, he lowered down to the belay and rested a while.  That was my signal to get out of there as the cold had really moved in and I had enough of it.  I assume he returned and finished the pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to Rock and Ice video for day 4 of the climb.  http://www.rockandice.com/video-gallery/the-dawn-wall-push-day-4

 

Blast from the past..My buddy and original Bridge Rat, Nickie Martinez, showed up today and hung out a while.  That got me to thinking we should look back a few years to a great climb.

Those of you who are long time readers of the report will recall Nicola (Nickie) Martinez and Alik Berg climbing an excellent Eric Kohl route (I don’t recall if it was a solo) called’ Pressure Cooker” over several days in 2010.  Part of the route climbs the recently named “Twin Towers”, the amazing golden rectangles in the black rock on the upper east side of the Cap.

9)  Here Nickie was leading some dicey thin stuff, thinking he had it made.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Ah yes!!  You should never think you have it make, until you have it done!  The plunge soon followed!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They finished the route a few days later… I think parts of it have disappeared in recent rock falls.  It was good theater, watching two excellent climbers, on difficult rock.

In other news:  Kevin Jorgeson is an Adidas Outdoor Athlete and Adidas asked me to come up and shoot the climb for them.  I was glad to accept their invitation, as this is a historic climb done by climbers for whom I have the greatest respect.  Thanks Adidas for making this possible.  You might give their products a good look, as they do support climbing and climbers, and make quality stuff.  With John Long and Wally Barker in prominent positions you know you can’t go wrong! 

So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday, the last day of 2014.  I hope this past year has been a good one for you and hope the future will be a bright one for all of us!

See you next year!

Capt. Tom… the human popsicle!