ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/6/2022

By Tom Evans

Yo… Hey, it has gotten cooler and the rush is on… get on it, or get in line!  The Nose has suddenly come to life with teams that are not bailers.  The Salathe has is also seeing an increase in traffic.  The Trip and its sub-routes and suddenly popular.  Zodiac had a rush a few days ago but all but one team bailed.  The Shield has a new team on it.   Mescalito is now empty as is the NA.  I have had some difficulty getting into Camp 4 as the on-line reservations are still going on as are the walk-in campers.  I went on line and got a site starting Monday, so find me hanging around there late in the evenings. 

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you… unique in all the world!

1)  Marek Reganowicz is moving steadily along on Lunar Eclipse, and this shot sees him climbing the prominent arch on pitch three.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  The boys on Bad Seed are making excellent progress and are seen here on the pitch to the Devils Brow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  The Bad Seed crew is seen here about to start the pitch out of the Devils Brow later in the day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Here they are the next day, starting the classic “A-1 Beauty”, one of the crux pitches on Houlding’s “Prophet” but not difficult at all on their route, as it is not climbed free.

 

 

 

 

5)  Kaos: Steve and Paul continue to move steadily along on this route and were caught by the ZM crew in this area.  They graciously let the ZM boys pass as they are younger and faster.  Steve leading here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Higher, Paul is leading thin nailing leading to the exit pitches they would finish on the next day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Over on the NA, the highly invisible Ranger team left the dark rock and dusted off the pendulum leading to the Black Dihedral.  I lost sight of them as they climbed inside that dark corner passing the famous Roof pitch later that day ultimately staying at the Cyclops bivy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  The Pendulum has a small swing arm and takes some effort to stick and hold.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  The next day they climbed up to the traverse pitch along the rim of the big roof as seen here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  The Atlantis Expedition, sponsored by the president of the “ElCap Crawlers” club, Piton Pete, required members of the team to haul heinous loads of alcohol, water, tasty junk food and other necessities to the alcove where the route starts.  Here, the two unfortunate “Minions” Pete managed to rustle up on the internet are starting to realize the size of the endeavor they have signed on to.  The expedition blasts at dawn… at least the minions (Luke Antonia and Tom Canac) will, as Pete rarely moves until 11am.  We watch with interest to see how it goes for the next 2 weeks.  May “The Force” be with them!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  The first pitch of South Seas is the first pitch of the 2003 Dave Turner route that has not had a second ascent.  I hate saying this but… this will be Pete’s 65^th route on the Captain… surely a record among those vying for the person with the most different routes on the Great Rock.  The first pitch was climbed some time ago by Luke and the ropes left in place for that glorious day when the crew set off on their adventure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Nose… the classic “pendulum into the Stovelegs” has gotten some interest of late and here a climber is finishing it off after a big run.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  El Capitan’s own beautiful art for all to see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14)  I spotted the leader, of a three-man team, on the traverse to the roof pitch, on the Shield, late one afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15)  Deweese and Hatfield are now on Lost in America and are quickly moving along.  This is the belay at the end of the first.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  I saw some kit from a solo at the start of the Dihedral this afternoon.  The Albatross has a team on it now and they look to be a strong team so far.  Paul and Steve finished Kaos this afternoon.  The guys on Bad Seed also finished this afternoon.  The Mescalito team finished in late morning today.  The YOSAR Reunion is now on and some of the old members are making the rounds at the meadow.

 

So that’s the way it is on this Thursday, the 6^th day of October, 2022.

Capt. Tom… I got this!