ElCap Report 10/6/2014

ElCap Report 10/6/14

By Tom Evans

Yo.. The good weather, continuing for the next 10 days, is starting to draw climbers to the great cliff.  We have action on several routes now and the big trades are less populated… so… come on out and take advantage of the best conditions in years.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!

Plastic Surgery Disaster:  While one of the dumber route names on ElCap, this route is one of the more difficult and seldom sees climbers on it.  Big Wall vets, Erik Erikson, and Dana Eubanks have taken up the challenge.

1)  Erik on the second pitch.  Dressed as normal, for him, in give-a-shit black with a yellow lid.





























Zodiac:  Three teams decided to do this classic at the same time.  After some negotiation a settlement was reached and this party went first.

2)  Climbing on the third pitch of Zodiac.  Notice the legless plastic chair being used as a belay seat... very comfortable!






























Tempest:  Paul Gagner and partner Jeremy, have fixed a couple on this difficult route.  I should have some shots of them soon.


Nose:  I saw four teams on the route today.

3)  This team of 3 climbers started from Dolt and are seen, in this shot, hauling kit, while the leader is out of view above.





























4)  Later the leader decided he didn’t like the confines of Texas Flake and decided to try the outside edge.  I’m not sure where that slung anchor came from, behind him, but suspect it was part of a YOSAR rescue in the Spring.





























5)  One of the teams from the past several days was seen topping out this afternoon.





























I saw a team dragging through the Legs all day and higher Jim Herson and partner easily cruising a NIAD.

Also Marian, the wife of the injured climber from the rescue on the 3rd, posted an update on his condition, on the Special Rescue Edition, on that date.  Be sure to read it.


Salathe:  I saw two parties on this route.  One was a sharp dressed wall style team and the other were dumpster diver dressed with just gear.

6)  Here the sharp dressed guys are doing the Hollow Flake in the usual way.





























7)  Later in the day they climbed the long pitch to the Alcove.





























Second look Monday.

8)  Moon shot from a few years back… this year’s moon shot is lining up in just a few days.. so, if you would like to be in a moon shot then get ready and come on by to find when it will be…usually a few days after the full moon, only in October.





























9)  My classic shot of Leo Houlding, on the FA of his route, The Prophet, was used in the American Alpine Journal back in 2010.






























10)  Lt. Tom in his tank, at Ft. Drum NY, in 1967.  I was an Armored Cavalry Platoon leader with 3 tanks, 4 APC scout vehicles, 1 APC with an Infantry squad inside, 1 APC with a 4.2in mortar, under my command.  I had an APC of my own too, but used a tank most of the time… I liked shooting the guns!!

























11)  Remembering our good friend, Fernando Motta, climber and BASE jumper who passed away a couple of years ago.  Several of his family members came to Yosemite, a couple of weeks ago, to see the place he so loved.






























So that’s the way it is, for this Monday, the 6th day of October, 2014.

At Ease!

Capt. Tom 

Wide boys

Just wondered if you had seen Tom R and Pete W up on El Cap, Muir wall I think? Cheers


From Tom:  I have not met or seen these guys, and they don't tell me of their plans so I figure they aren't interested.

I have not seen them on the wall save for one practice day, several days ago.  Good luck to them for a successful season.

Outstanding reporting

Outstanding reporting as usual. Thanks so much for the fantastic pictures and the updates.