ElCap Report 10/5/17

ElCap Report 10/5/17

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Splendid weather now dominates the climbing season.  Warm days and cool nights are making for perfect climbing conditions.  You need to come on out and get on the great rock as it doesn’t get better than it is now.  The big trades are getting a lot of attention but some interesting climbing is going down on the not so popular, but deserving routes.  This report covers the climbing from 9/27 to 10/5/2017.

Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you..unique in all the world!

The next several shots are from the recently completed, third ascent of Disorderly Conduct by Jon Rigg and Chris Trull.

1)  Afternoon light catches Chris on the incredible “Sweetness” pitch.





























2)  Lower on the route Chris is doing a pitch shared with Genesis.  Notice the “Carrot” on Tribal Rite in the left portion of the shot. Can you find the Horse Head on the Carrot?





























3)  John leads off on some beautiful rock, high on the route.





























4)  High on the route some of the most spectacular rock on the Cap is passed.





























5)  Late on the route Jon leads up toward the left edge of the Harding Roof.




























6)  Jon is just a few moves from the top in this long lens shot of the top.






























7)  A wall style team hauling kit to Sous le Toit ledge on the Salathe Wall route.





























8)  Roof pitch, Salathe Wall route.




























9)  Talking it over, Sickle Ledge, Nose Route.






























10)  Packed at the belay, top of the Sickle, Nose.





























11)  I did see old timers, Timmy O’Neil (leading) and Jimmy Chin, on the Jardine Traverse on their NIAD a few days ago.




























12)  Polish team on the Trip start to Aurora, a few days ago





























13)  Name the climb… win a fee view of ElCap.





























14)  New Zealander, Dan Head is making exceptional time on his wall style ascent of the Nose.  Traverses and length make the Nose a hard solo.





























15)  Up on the Muir I spotted Dino and Gena a pitch above the Gray Bands.





























16)  Two days later Gena was spotted leading the last of the splendid upper dihedral pitches.




























17)  Marek and Magda are seen here passing the Black Cat on the Trip start to Aurora.




























18)  Out west on Aquarian, Steve Gerberding is seen hauling kit.





























19)  The Freerider/Salathe routes are getting a lot of attention these days.  Here the mixed team of Alix and Matt are doing the Monster Crack from the bottom… maybe to avoid the hard move from the Ear to the Crack.



























20)  Mescalito has a new team on it.  They are, Chad and Ian, seen here leading off Stork Ledge (aka Anchorage ledge) to the Seagull.  The two bird pitch.



























21)  Fall is definitely in the air now as the Maples along the roads are turning yellow and the Oaks are starting too.  My favorite tree in the park, the Sugar Maple across from the chapel, showed me some color yesterday in this shot.



























In other news:  The traffic continues to be a huge drag on my level of happiness, but there are a lot of construction projects that need to be done before winter sets in…. so I guess I will just have to live with it this season.  The hoopla from the rockfalls has died down now but those scars are still very impressive!

So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 5th day of October, 2017.

Capt. Tom… basking in the glow of ElCap.


Hi Tom.

Did you, by any chance, get pictures of us on Freerider?

On the day you photographed those two french guys (named Charlie and Jaco) on the Salathe doing, as we would expect, Frenchfree ;) (Pictures #7 and 8 above) we were sleeping on El Cap Spire.

We tried to freeclimb Freerider onsight over 8 days from Sept 25 to Oct 3.

I mostly wore orange pants and a clear blue t-shirt. We had 2 beige haulbags and 5 ropes that we fixed between comfy ledges.

We left 3 pitches unfreed but had an awesome time up there!


Dan & Jeff

Disorderly Conduct!

Great shots of the route. Thanks for sharing the 3rd ascent with us. Your sugar maple is starting to come into form.



Thank you, Tom! If you see anyone on Zodiac this week, would love it if you had the chance to grab a few shots!

Zodiac has three different parties on it at the moment.  I shoot all of them.  Have the climbers you are interested in come by the meadow or cafe to get their shots.

Zodiac shots for mom watching

Hi Tom!

LOVE your photos! I, too, would greatly appreciate photos from Zodiac this week as I sit here wondering how my 20 year old is doing on his second big wall climb (he did Lurking Fear in June). Hayden (a tall ginger) is climbing with Eli, and they are with a separate party of 3. They fixed lines yesterday and are going after it today. Any shots you can provide would be soooo enjoyed as his dad and I sit here in Boulder, wishing we were on the wall with him :-) Cheers, Kari

Mescalito Party

Hey Tom, thanks for the great photos! That's Chad Cochrane (Grey) and Ian McEleney (Blue) on Mescalito! More pics of them would be greatly appreciated! - Ian's Wife over in Mammoth Lakes :)


Yo... I shoot everybody up there every day so there will be shots of this team as they go up the route.  Not all parties make the elcap report... some because they aren't at a photogenic spot or because they are wearing black or gray clothing and thus they don't show up very well... or because I have shown a lot of shots in the past of the part of the cliff they are climbing.. Because they are not on the report does not mean they are not being photographed.

Steve G

Thanks for keeping a lens on him Tom! This is his 61st different route on The Captain,!... Take good care, cal

Hey Cal....

I'm nipping at Steve's heels, Cal. I'm working on #59. Steve and i need to do a route together sometime.

Thanks Tom!

Awesome report! Keep em' coming!