ElCap Report 10/25/2022

ElCap Report 10/25/2022

By Tom Evans

Yo..  Cool weather has finally arrived… a month late!  The ElCap free climbing hopefuls are coming out of hiding now and heading for FreeRider, and Golden Gate.  Drop-ins are working the higher environs of the Great Rock.  The fixed lines are reported to be in good shape now… but always be ready to use your own ropes for these raps, so pack them near the top of your kit for easy access on the descent down the East Ledges.  The Big Hoax is supposed to start climbing today.  CNN reports that Joe Baker says that his kid, Sam, is a “world class climber,” at the age of 8 years old!!  CNN, of course, and other media are buying into this lie.  Would a world class climber choose to jug fixed lines instead of actually climbing the rock itself?? Of course not!!  The parents of this child are shamelessly exploiting this little boy, exposing him to a dangerous cliff where 29 “actual climbers” have perished and countless have been injured.  Why would a parent do this when most would make climbing ElCap a long-term goal, involving training, body development, years of experience, and other smaller wall climbs, before sending him out on ElCap.  What is the hurry that justifies doing this now, instead of when he is not a small child as he is now?  What is so important?  I will tell you what…. A supposed “World Record”, is so important for the parent’s greed for publicity and social media fame, that they are will willing to risk the child’s life to get it.  They are spraying all over any media that will listen to their lies even before the event begins.  Who is advocating for the child, if the parents are not?  We are!  Why is our Climbing Ranger silent about this?  World Class… my ass.


Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you… unique in all the world!

1)  VA to the Trip.  This woman’s team of, Rebecca Church and partner Trish are putting the pitches behind them and are seen here on the VA part of the route.  Fast, efficent, movers these ladies are!






























2)  Here the women are on the pitch starting the long corner system leading to the two long bolt ladders what define the higher part of the route.





























3)  Over on Salather/Freerider, this team’s leader is experiencing the “joy of the off-width.”































4)  Later in the afternoon they are seen hauling kit to the top of the Ear.





























5)  This climber is seen having escaped the interesting chimney above the Hollow flake.





6)  A lone climber contemplates the route above the famous ElCap Spire on the Salathe route.



7)  These climbers are hauling kit to the white block, a pitch above the EC Spire.  From here Golden Gate continues right and the regular Salathe and Freerider go straight up.































8)  Zodiac is getting a lot of attention as a climber with macular degeneration is being guided up the route as a bucket list wish before he goes completely blind.  So far it is going well. Someone please tell me his name as, somehow, I have missed it thus far.  The team behind them, Andrew and Grace have shown great patience waiting for the team above to clear the pitches they need to lead.






























9)  Here, on Zodiac , Andrew has gotten the green light and is seen here heading past the Pearly Gates with the famous Lightning bolt Roofs, are seen on the left.



10)  Later in the day … what a photographer is willing to do to get the perfect shot on the mega famous Nipple pitch.






























11)  Out on Atlantis the crew seems to have lost the line or are exploring a different finish.





























12)  The ravens have been active in recent days… zooming around taking a close look at various teams.  The bird is probably wondering why one guy in the team looks great and the other like a dumpster diver!  Dress well… climb well.  Looks like a NIAD team to me.































13)  The leader in #12 got the call and led he Boot quickly and efficiently… must be that shirt that makes the difference!





























14)  The team in #12 made the grab on the King Swing later in the day and moved along from there.






























In other news:  I am soon to depart so if you have shots you can get here then please do… it is a considerable hassle to drop box shots on the internet.

So that’s the way it is, on this 25th day of October, 2022.

Capt. Tom





Extending your stay !

Glad to hear you're able to stay longer. WIth teams still crankin it up, we will enjoy more ECRs !
Getting cooler so stay warm and take care yourself. !

Mtn Tradman

Hey from Team Atlantis

Team Atlantis here. With Luke Antonia and Tom "Tabarnac" . Canac . We got a little off route cuz we missed some rivets that were not shown on the topo we had.

We have been in touch with first ascensionist Dave Turner who has helped us find the way, and we have climbed the route correctly.

My lead last night up to Island in the Sky was 65m of full on climbing - Luke led the first part - and a viable contender for crux pitch of the route.
As I am only the second person to climb it, I imagined myself to be climbing rock just like Jim Bridwell on the first ascent of Pacific Ocean Wall.

Except Jim didn't have big peckers and Totem cams! Hell, he didnt even have Friends!!

Up, up, always up Team Atlantis!

Psyched y’all have made it past Richie Copeland’s and my high point in 2008, ending in self rescue (thanks to Erik Sloan and Tom Evans help guide us down the epic retreat) after Rich broke his ankle on the pitch after the crux merging left.

You guys are no doubt going to bag the 2nd ascent of this beast!

That’s great that Dave is helping with beta too, he seems to have an amazing memory of the route.

People can give you all the arm chair BS they want, but the fact is no one else has even attempted it, and you BMF’ers are on it, in it, and sending it!


Manley II - Vertical Lessons

Thank you!

Excellent shots and commentary!