ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/23/12

Special Late Season Storm Report

By Tom Evans

Yo… The storm came, as predicted, and was stronger than expected.  In this report you will get the latest climbing news and get to see scenic shots I took today.  Many teams finished just before the storm and a few didn’t and are still up there.

 

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The solo climber, Ted Baker, is still on the route, after weathering two difficult nights of driving snow, wind, and cold.  I spotted him today under the overhang at the end of the pitch off Peanut Ledge.  I assume he will climb off today, during a break in the weather.  You can just see his ledge in the photo below.  But you have to know where to look!

Native Son:  Marek stayed at the top of the 2^nd bolt ladder throughout both nights of the storm.  I yelled up to him

 thismorning to see if he was ok and he gave a call  indicating  he was.  As I was departing, he broke camp and

continued upward.  It is 3pm and the storm is over now.  The Valley is sparkling in its newly cleaned exterior.

 

Marek is in the ledge in the left center of the shot.  The protruding branch is pointing right at him.

1)  Update 10/25/12  8am... Marek had breakfast in the Cafe this morning and we talked about his climb.  He climbed off last night just after dark and came down the East ledges.  His is back in camp and sleeping this morning.  He said the climb was the best he has ever done.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Muir:  The Canadian team had a grave misadventure on the last pitch two days ago.  The leader lead the last pitch as darkness fell and then a series of difficulties occurred.  When the leader got to the top the tag line jammed so he was unable to bring up the haul line.  The last pitch is very traversing and difficult to lower down or follow in difficult conditions.  As a result the leader fixed the lead line and told the second to jug out and leave the gear until they could come back and get it after the storm.  The second didn’t want to do that.  So he stayed with the kit.  The leader went down to Camp 4, as he had no bivy or rain gear, and thus couldn’t stay on top.

Yesterday, around 2pm, YOSAR was called and organized a rescue.  The weather made it impossible for a chopper to fly, so the 3 man team of Aaron Smith, Ben Doyle, and Matt Othmer went up from the ground.  The storm was raging by the time they left to climb the east ledges.  Late in the evening the rescuers’ arrived at the top of the Muir. The stranded climber was hypothermic and wanted off as soon as possible.  He was hauled to the top, in conditions so bad the kit had to be left.  The descent was difficult as everyone was soaked and the snow was full on.   In the end everything worked out for the best and the rescue was a success.  I suppose only the climbers and, perhaps John Dill, know all the details of this bizarre event.  Another YOSAR success goes in the books!

Here is a link to the official report...  http://www.nps.gov/yose/parknews/elcapsar1012.htm

 

On a lighter note, below are some scenic shots from earlier today.

2)  South Side Drive this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  The view from Cook's meadow this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Cathedral gully with the Spires on the left and Higher rock on the right.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  The Three Brothers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)   Eagle Peak.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  El Capitan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)   Lost Arrow and Yosemite Point in the distance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)   Buddies to the end.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  The end!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s the way it is, for this Tuesday, the 23^rd day of October, 2012.

Later, Tom