ElCap Report 10/22/2014

ElCap Report 10/22/14

By Tom Evans

Yo… Nice action on the hill today!  The girls day out, took an unexpected turn this morning as Chantel had some difficulties getting in the groove, so early in the morning.  She dropped some gear and then took a long fall off the 2nd pitch.  She wisely concluded that discretion is the better part of valor and came down to go another day.  Libby and Mayan had a nice run at a leisurely pace for them.  Mayan has been ill for a couple of weeks and has not completely recovered.  I don’t know their time but I would guess between 9 and 11 hours.  Chantel has plans to go back on Friday.


Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

1)  Surgeon General:  Marek has survived this interesting route and is now exiting off on Lunar to Zodiac.  Here he is checking out the Tooth.






























2)  Zodiac:  Brant Didden is poised to get off the climb early tomorrow.  Here he is cleaning the ramp to Peanut Ledge this afternoon.































3)  Lunar Eclipse:  I think it’s Kenny Boklund and partner on this photogenic route.  Here they are on the 3rd.






























4)  Trip:  Danny continues to work his way up the center part of the route.  Here he is late this morning within some interesting looking rock.





























5)  Beyer’s Delight…or whatever!  Jim struck out onto more virgin rock today, climbing above the Spoon.  The rock there looks a little on the bleak side but he has found some very tenuous features to make a path through.  This is the first day I've seen him wear a helmet.






























Nose:  There are several parties down low now and it looks like they are all going to stay on the route.  Higher drab team from the past few days topped out this afternoon.  The team that came over from 3D, were at the back of the line, at the Great Roof, after letting the women pass.  The following is a set of pics of the women and also Jorg Verhoeven and partner on the Nose.

6)  Mayan simul-climbing behind Libby on the pitch above Dolt Tower.





























7)  Mayan leading across the Lynn Hill Traverse after they changed leading blocks.  Mayan led the second half while Libby took the first.































8)  Jorg taking a no hands rest on the Great Roof.  Both he and partner came close to freeing the roof but fell at the usual spot.































9)  Jorg’s partner seconding the lower part of the Roof.






























Below are three shots of different climbers at about the same location.

10)  Jorg on the pitch into Camp 5.






























11)  Jorg’s partner on the same pitch.






























12)  Mayan on the same pitch.































In other news:  We have had a nice time in the meadow these past days in the company of John Long and his crew of climbers and photographers.  Mash and Axel came down from the NIAD they did yesterday and hung out for most of the day, along with several others.

So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday the 22nd day of October, 2014.

Later, Capt. Tom

Marek you are an animal!

Good job on the Surgeon General! You never seem to slow down. It was great for Madeleine and I to see you at the bridge.


Go Jim

This may be the first time that we can watch day by day the reclusive wall master Beyer climb a new route up the captain. Watching a first ascent on this well traveled stone is a treat in itself. Please shoot as many shots of Jim for all of the crusty aid climbers to watch!

Thanks Tom,


hopefully the girls are

hopefully the girls are careful.. good to hear everything went ok.c
good luck Chantal!
no pants


Hope she gets it done on Friday.