ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/18/2022

By Tom Evans

Yo… Better weather is bringing the masses to the Captain.  The free climbers have set off to the routes they are going to give it all to do.  Free Rider, El Corazon, and Golden Gate all have teams on them.  The Nose has some regular suitors and has remained pretty open with some clusters of climbers seen in the Legs and Gray Bands.  Zodiac is pretty full at the moment with wall climbers and a movie crew, that has ropes strung from the top to bottom.  Maybe a good idea to take a pass on it for now.  The fixed lines on the East Ledges are in very poor condition as reported to me by a team who came down just yesterday.  Watch out for knots in the middle of the lines and other damage too.  Be prepared to use your own ropes until someone can get up there to place new/better lines.  I will keep you posted!

Today’s ElCap Report.. written just for you… unique in all the world!!

1)  El Corazon has the strong Polish team of Karolina Oska, and Michat Czech on it now as seen in this photo with Karolina on a solid lead with the “Eyes of ElCap” on the team.  Polish climbers, proudly, have had a big season on the great rock!  Marek and Gosia have departed for home with plans to come back next season.  Can you see the difference colorful climbers and kit make in a shot?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  On Aurora, the Manley men, teamed with Steve Schneider, are moving along steadily headed to the upper environs of the route.  Here Steve is on the sharp end of the line. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Atlantis… The Pete show is now in its full glory, with huge spray dominating Facebook and any social media that will accept it.  However, one must admit that the climb is going exceptionally well thus far. Yesterday was a huge day as Minion, Tom Canac sent the supposed crux pitch, rated A-4 by Dave Turner, over several hours of delicate hook moves and questionable small gear.  Certainly, one of the best leads of the Fall season.  Here he is on a pose down for the crew as he started the tedious and serious lead.

 

 

 

4)  Today, Minion, Luke Antonia set off on a huge lower-out to install the next pitch.  Tom is seen here following later in the morning.  Minion Power!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  The Shield is getting a lot of attention this season as the benign weather has turned it into a sunny day sport climb.  Here the bags are out and the second departs the belay for higher, steeper rock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Also on the Shield… a close up, shot from over half a mile away in the meadow, catches a good look at the climber.  His colors, of course, suck big time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  We had a super speedy team zip up the Muir in just 3 days. I was able to get this shot of them on the big corner at the routes end, from my tree in the meadow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  I later moved way out west and got this shot of the men finishing the climb.  This pitch wanders all over the place... see lead climber in very top left of the shot.  There is a direct finish put in my Nicola Martinez but it seems to be ignored by most climbers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Nose… Rap from Dolt Tower...I'm guessing on this one.....as sometimes happens, ones ropes can get crossed at the rappel station going over the edge, and when you get to the next station the lines will not pull down.. the harder you pull, the tighter they grip.  Fortunately these guys had not let go of either end so one side was fixed and one climber jugged the other line and cleared the situation.  I have seen cases where the "free end" of the line is released and lost in the wind... and one becomes...rescue bait! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Over on Golden gate I got this close-up shot of Alexandra Schweikart on the difficult, step-down to get onto the route, that pesters many suitors.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Zodiac… in this long shot from Bridalviel Falls caught the Great White Circle with a team on the mega-classic, Nipple pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  I got this shot from way out west of a team turning the Great Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  Out west I was also able to get this shot of a climber on the long corner above the Jardine Traverse taking a look at the guy climbing the famous, Boot flake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14)  One of the reasons for my jaunt out west was to get a shot of and check on, Sean Warren, who is out solo on Cosmos.  The lanky Brit continues to put the pitches behind him.  It looks pretty hot out on that dark rock but Sean seems to have taken it in stride and is moving along smartly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15)  Ok… a sunset shot from the west deck of my cabin in Crestline CA.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news… rumor and reports are suggesting it will rain this coming weekend.  I really need a rain day to catch up on my work and get some much-needed extra sleep.

Capt. Tom… later.