ElCap Report 10/18/12

ElCap Report 10/18/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Warm, warm, warm seems to be the mantra these days.  Rumor has it that by Monday we may get some rain/snow here in the Valley.  I guess that would be a good thing, as long as it doesn’t close out the climbing season.  A lot of routes are being done now, but there are not that many climbers on the wall.   Enjoyable day of photography and hanging at the Bridge, with various heroes of recent ascents of the Captain.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Shortest Straw:  Matt Lambert climbed to the base of the “Sawblade Flake”, as I shot today and I think he will do the next pitch before he bivies.

1)  Matt at the base of the Sawblade from way out west.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ZM:   Ryan and Alex are moving along well and climbed out of the circle this morning onto some difficult climbing among small, scattered features.

2)  Ryan leading out of the Circle this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Native Son:  Talk about some scattered features!  Marek climbed on some of the most confusing looking terrain on the Cap.  Check this shot out!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pacific Ocean Wall:  DGriff, Marta, and (?) are on the route now.  Dave led a long pitch this morning up to the thin crack that eventually leads to the Continental Shelf.  Steep and thin up there!

4) Dave and (?) hauling kit on the PO.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mescalito:  The speedy Belgians, Sanne and Stanley, climbed off the route this morning.  Well done men!

5)  Bringing it on home on Mescalito.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down, Tommy and Kevin were spotted in the center of the route today.  I don’t think they will make the Bismarck tonight, but are moving along well enough.

6)  Hauling and cleaning on Mescalito.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Dawn:  Lincoln and Brandon continue to move along well on this historic route.  They are most likely to bivy below the Harding Roof, high on the route.

7)   Brandon leading a couple of pitches above Wino Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  The route is mostly empty after today.  There is one team that will most likely stay at Camp 6 or climb off in the dark.  They climbed the Great Roof this morning when I got this shot.

8)   ElCap salute on the Great Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Higher up I saw the mixed team, from yesterday, at the top of the changing corners and they will make it off this evening, albeit late.

Lower down a team of two was hauling kit to Dolt Hole this afternoon.

 

9)  Muir Wall:  The Canadians, Doug and Luke, were spotted today heading toward Grey Ledges in mid afternoon.  It looked pretty warm over there, especially hauling that kit of theirs’.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  I did see a team climb off in late morning, leaving the route empty.

 

Dihedral:  I did get a glimpse of the 3 man team up on Thanks Giving Ledge this afternoon.  I am uncertain as to how they are going to exit.  Hopefully they will climb the last 4 pitches of the original route.

Lower down I saw Kate and Erik moving some kit up to the 2nd pitch on Dihedral, headed for Horse Chute friends tell me.

10)  Kate jugging the previously fixed 2nd pitch, while Erik tends to logistics.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NNL:  Cam and Jim are high on the route now and should be on Thanks Giving Ledge tonight.

11)   The team heading for higher ground this afternoon, past the pinnacle of Hammerdom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

West Buttress:  Stevie G is flowing up the route in his smooth, steadily paced style.

12)  Here he is on some cool looking rock, this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lurking Fear:   I did spot a couple of parties out there on this popular route.  One was low and the other around the 6th pitch.

 

In other news:  British hard man and good guy,  Leo Houlding, arrived today for a week of fun climbing.  Of course, his definition of “fun” probably doesn’t match yours or mine!  He was hanging with Stanley and you never know what that will lead to!

The Bridge was quiet early and later a slug of climbers arrived from recent ascents of ElCap to include Mescalito, and the Nose, both NIAD’s and regular ascents.  Everyone was psyched and shared their stores, and had a good time!

13)  Irish Paul, Oli Warlow, and Durango Boys, Pete and Max just down from Mescalito.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 18th day of October, 2012.

Later Tom

On a personal note...My daughter-in-laws operation today came out well and she is expected to recover but it will take some time.  The Doctors are optimistic and the family is pleased.  Many thanks for your support and thoughts my friends!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

'twas a pleasure to finally

'twas a pleasure to finally meet you about 9/24 ... thanks for all your posts ... glad your daughter is on the mend ...

dirtbags in flagstaff

here in zonerland we look to the west with awe as gonzo Jim Gaun completes his twentieth ascent of the big stone by the road. Thanks Mr. Tom for helping us watch our minimaster!

great work

Thanks for your wonderful photos and comments. Really enjoyed following it all as I have a stake in the adventure.
Flame (Max from Durango's mother)

Pinnacle of Hammerdom

I like the shot of NNL. Pinnacle of Hammerdom is very pretty, with the golden rock and the little pine tree.

Go Matt!

Nice work up there on the straw!

Brian