ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/16/2022

By Tom Evans

Yo… They say the heat is about to abate, but most free climbers are waiting to see it actually happen before heading up on the Hill.  Several strong and well-known European free climbers have recently arrived and you will be reading about their exploits in the near future.  The regular trades are seeing action and some of them are covered in this report.  So hang on to your computer as there are an abundance of shots to behold in this report.  Sorry to have such a lag in them but I have fallen behind in processing images and have been under the weather for a couple of days too.

Today’s ElCap Report.. written just for you.. unique in all the world!!

I have been neglecting the Nose lately so here is a nearly lethal dose of Nose shots! Numbers 1 thru 8.

1)  Flipping like a gymnast on the King Swing.  He dove to made the grab at the last instant and moved on.  It appears as if his rope is tied to his foot... however it is just the shadow of his rope which shows well but the real rope is not visible, except at his hand.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  This smoothly dressed climber cruised the pitches below Sickle Ledge a couple of days ago.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Take note pukes… this is how a well dressed NIAD team looks while cruising above Dolt Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  We have had a lot of clustering at the Gray Bands of late.  This day team on the Nose, wasn’t expecting Camp 4 to be occupied and found this team from the 3D had cut in line in front of them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Nice lighting on a King Swinger as the light moved west.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  I really liked this afternoon shot of a climber at the base of Texas Flake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Ok… use a little imagination and see the “Camp 5 Surfer” who resides on the huge wall above the fabled camp.  King Kong chimney (aka "Coin Slot") on the left of the shot at the head of the surfer.

 

8)  The last few feet of the Nose route… a dream come true for those who persist and overcome the great route’s defences.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Over on Atlantis, one of the Minions flashed me a good morning message.

 

 

 

10)  Old Pete got out of his ledge and lead a pitch late one afternoon.  I gotta say that the Minions are putting on a clinic up there and Pete is at the controls on all the hauls as it is all hands on deck, when the loads are hauled up the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  This is Tom, who climbed to the Sharks Fin of the Great White shark one evening.  The pitch off the fin, a long, straight seam angling up and left is supposedly the crux of the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Kenny and Hunter climbed off Kaos this afternoon.  Their sunbrella was a big hit and created a great deal of envy among the teams sweltering on the wall near-by.  I suspect we will see a lot more such devices in the future. ET call home!

 

 

13)  Zodiac is back in the news as this solo did the second pitch.  At the moment we have a push team, of Tyler and Jake, and a solo in the White Circle and a couple of teams about to start. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14)  Zodiac: I liked the look this green guy seen here on the 4^th pitch a couple of days ago.  Dark colors are still infecting all the ElCap routes this season… not good.The upper guys clothing is NOT Tom approved.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15)  The team of Daniel Gebel and Doerte Pietron are cruising on the Shield.  I don’t think I have ever seen a woman in short-shorts belaying on that route as the winds are usually blowing hard and it is cold as the Artic usually.  Start of the Groove Pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

16)  Manley Feinberg II and son, Manley Feinberg III, are teamed with the legendary Steve Schneider on Aurora.  They are about half way up the route at the moment.  I think young Manley is on the sharp end in this shot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

17)  Salathe/Freerider is about to get a rush of talent, bidding on the free ascent.  Here a team is heading up to the much feared Ear… a Bombay chimney that tests the nerves of the most hardened climbers, even though technically, it is relatively easy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Gosia, Mark and Max, Marek and several other teams we have been watching have finished their climbs and are down safely now.  Congrats go out to all the teams who have dug deep and reached their dream climbs. 

So that’s the way it is, on this late Sunday evening, October the 16^th 2022.

Capt. Tom… you guessed it… in “my corner” in the Mountain Room Bar, writing this report… just for you!