ElCap Report 10/1/2022

ElCap Report 10/1/2022

By Tom Evans

Yo… Beautiful weather, although a little on the warm side, continues to draw climbers to El Capitan.  Several routes are getting attention and none are crowded.  This is the time for you to plan your escape to the land of adventure.  So, pack your haul bags and come on down!  Big names are arriving daily so stick with the ElCap Report to keep abreast of all the action.

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you… unique in all the world!

1)  On the upper east side, Bad Seed is getting the works from the Wisconsin boys, Sean Glendon and Nikko Valdes.  Here they are low on the route two days ago.






























2)  Sean or Nikko are seen here leading past the Devils Tower onto the Skid Row pitch, the 1st day of October.  They are moving well and seem to have the necessary grit to get the job done.































The next several shots are of Steve Schneider and Paul Gagner on Kaos. These “senior” climbers are both in their early 60’s and have proven that they are among the very best big wall climbers to rack up for the Captain.

3)  Paul is seen here leading the second pitch which is mostly a long rivet ladder.































4)  Paul is seen finishing the 2nd pitch.






5)  This is a shot of Steve cleaning while Paul hauls kit from far above.






























6)  This is a shot taken from way out west as the kit and Steve are getting close to the belay.



7)  The next day Steve got the difficult and fractured pitch that was recently re-established after some rock fall that came down some time ago.































8)  Adrien Costa dusted his excellent solo of Mescalito a few days back.  He is seen here on the last pitch of the route. 






























9)  A new team of two are now on Mescalito. They are Rob Dillon and partner Grayson and are seen here late on the first of Oct. finishing the Seagull pitch in strong afternoon cross-lighting.





























10)  The Nose has been getting some attention with the unusual clustering of teams within a couple of pitches.  Here a three man team is looking pretty busy at their Stoveleg belay.






























11)  Still on the Nose… This shot from “out west” catches a team on the pitch to the Jardine Traverse belay.






























12)  Ok Folks… this one is a visual lesson for you…. Notice the two three- man teams, one on the left and one on the right atop the Boot Flake. Which team catches your eyes the most?  Of course… the one with the great looking colors!  Please, please, please try to remember to wear bright colors so you stand out in the photos.  Walmart sells cheap but bright T-shirts.  Also Skot Richards is here with his collection a great gear available to you at the Line-up down at ElCap and his T-shirts are all Color Approved by Tom!! 































13)  Late afternoon finds a cluster of teams around the King Swing and above as the cross-light illuminates them.































14)  Over on the Salathe this team spent Sat. night at the Alcove and are seen here at the belay above the ECSpire.






























In other news:  Marek blasted on Lunar Eclipse yesterday.  Hayley took the day off at the top of the 2nd on Lost in America, aka “LA”. Chris Greig is just about off of SSPO after some nice climbing on that excellent route.  A solo woman is about to start on Va/Trip.  I saw two climbers climb over the Shield roof this afternoon and were dusting off the Groove pitch as I departed.  A team of local women were spotted running into the cluster of teams at the great roof while climbing on the 2D route.  Out west the guys on the Dihedral bailed in the heat of the blazing afternoon sun.  The Nose is seeing a few NIADs, and Dolt runs too.  If you are headed up soon… please let me know what route and if you want pics taken.

So that’s the way it is on this Saturday 1 October, 2022.

Capt. Tom… just for you!

Awesome Tom, thanks so

Awesome Tom, thanks so much!!!


Awesome to be reading ECR again this season!