ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/10/22

By Tom Evans

Yo… We are still in the middle of the longest, clear Fall weather streak I have seen in many a year.  Lots of action on the cliff, with the possible exception of Salathe/Freerider which has been mostly deserted this season.  I figure the free climbers are hiding, cowering in fear of the heat and will arise when the temps drop into the 70’s.  Wall style teams are on the increase with lots of attention to the Trip and Zodiac along with some activity on the Shied headwall.  Still, lots of solo climbers are getting it done on the Captain.  The season is rolling along and now is the time to get here and send that dream climb you have always wanted to do.  I have moved to Camp 4 so find me there “after work”.  Mostly I am in the Café (7 to 9am and 4 to 7pm) or Mt. Room Bar after 5pm, if you are looking to get your shots.  I am in the ECM from 9am to 3pm most days.

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you… unique in all the world!

1)  Albatross… the Dodd brothers (Brett and Camden) are putting on a clinic on this photogenic route.  Here they are leading off after a night spent on the mega-classic Canoe, high on the route. The long crack to the right of the Canoe is on the Shield route but is so positioned that it is not visible from the Canoe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Kyle Rott and partner made a 2 bivy climb of Zodiac.  Here Kyle is leading the famous Nipple Pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Kyle also lead the pitch above Peanut Ledge, the scene of a recent rescue you read about in an earlier report. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next several shots are from the Nose Route.

4)  Helping hands get the tension traverse off the top of Sickle Ledge done.

 

 

 

5)  THE perfect spot to cross the corner to Eagle Ledge on the King Swing.  Notice the climber didn’t run across the so called “Tan Band” as the friction on the band is considerably less than that above or below it.  Run about 2 ft above the band and you will hit it just like this guy did. The corner is at its most narrow at this point so you can reach over it .. be sure to change feet so the left is free to reach over the corner for a heel hook or small knob.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  I like those yellow pants on the climber turning the Great Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  When the route to the Boot Flake is jammed, the Jardine Traverse and corner above offer a fast alternative to Eagle Ledge as this party knows.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  These guys were doing some interesting free climbing on the pitch to the Gray Bands, even though the Lynn Hill Traverse is faster and is just below them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  This team is awakening and moving about as the sun comes to them at Camp 5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Early morning bailers leaving the Salathe Wall route.  Seen here leaving the Ear.

        Certainly… BAIL OF THE DAY!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Lunar Eclipse:  Marek is slowly motoring along on this beautiful route, just east of Zodiac.  Here he is breaking down his bivy to begin the day of climbing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Lunar makes good use of the excellent rock in the Great White Circle and the beautiful formations it has.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  Goisa Jurewicz, the Polish woman solo climber, is looking strong after finishing the Virginia start to the Trip and is now on that route for the rest of her climb.  Here she is on the traverse to the so called “Slab pitch” the key to the upper headwall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14)  Goisa starting the short section up to the belay on the Slab Pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 I arrived in Yosemite some 2.5 weeks ago and found ropes fixed on the first pitch of South Seas, a pitch shared with the Dave Turner route, Atlantis.  I learned that Piton Pete had laid siege to the route after learning it had not had a second ascent.  Since then, he and minions, Tom Canac and Luke Antonia have slowly been assembling the necessary items for a 2 week climb.  Among them are 60 beers, 5 bottles of wine, a bottle of whiskey, and 38 gallons of water… also unknown quantities of food.  Of course, the normal clothing, ropes, hardware, portaledges and such are necessities too.  They have threatened to launch the entire mass onto the route at any moment.  However, we continue to wait.  But yesterday Pete and the lads came by the Tree and gave their last good-byes to the meadow crew and it just may happen!  It will take the horse power of a Saturn 5 booster rocket to get it off the deck.  Let the hauling commence!!

15)  Here Tom is seen jugging to the end of the first pitch where Pete’s ledge has been hanging for some time. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Tribal Rite , VaTrip has another party starting as does the regular route on the trip. Zodiac has a couple of suitors including a solo in the works.  The Nose … well you know… is always in someone’s plans.  You now the deal… stay tuned to the ECR for all the details.

So that’s the way it is, on this Monday, the 10^th day of October, 2022.

Capt. Tom … banging out another report from my corner in the Mt. Room Bar.