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|Submitted by Tom Evans on Sat, 10/11/2014 - 02:02|
ElCap Report 10/10/14
By Tom Evans
Yo.. Splendid weather has caused a rush to ElCap, for the first time this season. Fall weather is here folks so this is just the right moment for you to show up! Power has been out in Yosemite for several days and rumors abound as to when it will be fixed, down at El Portal. The only place that has power is the Lodge food areas, because they have generators. The rooms have no power and haven’t had hot water for a while either. They are discounting rooms at the Lodge..one third off the cost of a room…not bad if you like the dark! Lots of interesting action on the Captain these days.
Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you..unique in all the world!
Zodiac: The team we have been watching for a few days topped out this afternoon.
1) Belayer waiting on Peanut Ledge for his partner to finish the pitch above.
2) Ugh Oh! Wrong way Bro… it goes to the right at the end and not the left! He figured it out and was soon on top.
3) Trip: Kitty Calhoun and another woman were fixing the second pitch this afternoon.
4) Native Son: Adam Tischler and Jordan Webster fixed one yesterday and blasted today. Later in the afternoon Adam lead the next pitch. Jim Beyer was next door, warming up on the first pitch of Highway to Hell, just for the fun of it. A5 is fun??!
Tempest: Paul and Jeremy are moving along quite well on this excellent route. Paul lead the “Rubber Band Pendulum” this morning. They were on the next pitch when I retired for the day. Here are a few shots of Paul leading.
8) Mescalito: Jon and Skot climbed to Stork Ledge (formerly known as Anchorage Ledge) by early afternoon. Here they are looking at the next lead which was Skot’s.
Nose: The Nose has several parties on it but they are spread out enough not to cause much delay.
9) The “Yellow Team,” brought up the rear this afternoon, in the Legs.
10) This team bivied on Dolt Tower and were about to King Swing as I left around 3pm. Here they are on the pitch before the cruiser to ECT.
11) Higher on the route the team from 3D climbed the Pancake Flake as the belayer gave a wave to his wife at the Bridge.
12) Higher the team of Jade and Paul (UK) climbed off in early afternoon. Here Paul is straddling the ramp in the Alcove while Jade organizes the belay higher.
13) The team behind the Brits was close on their heels, and are seen here just below the Alcove. They surely are off by now.
14) Salathe: The team, lead by this climber, cruised the Freeblast and were just below the Spire when I left. He lead everything I saw.
15) Freerider: Matt Ciancino took a run at Freerider in a day, with support from Cody Sims. I first saw them on the Boulder Problem and later at Sous le Toit. It appeared as though Matt didn’t send the route, but I am not certain about that. Excellent effort either way! Here Cody is checking, on the phone, with his base of operations while Matt starts the Enduro Corner.
In other news: The great Polish climber, Marek Raganowica, (aka Regan around here) hauled kit and is starting on Surgeon General in the morning.
A couple of teams (Mark and Alice, Jean and Adam) are hoofing to the Muir to climb that great route.
I am needing some donations to the cause. If you got pics and want to donate then please do... if you are a reader who wants to continue reading the report then please donate whatever you can. Many thanks!
So that’s the way it is, for this Friday, the 10th of October, 2014. Stay tuned for all the action!