ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/10/12
By Tom Evans

Yo… Nice in the mornings but windy and colder in the afternoons.  However, the base of the Cap finds very nice conditions, all day.  We have had a little shower this evening that mostly wet the pavement.  Rain is expected for tonight and showers for tomorrow.  The Captain is relatively empty at the moment with several teams climbing off before the light showers this evening.  I enjoyed shooting in mixed light today.  Bright shade from high clouds makes for some detailed shots into corners that would normally be blown out.  Tommy Caldwell and wife Becca arrived this morning to work his long standing project on the Dawn Wall.  He is partnered with Jonathan Seagrist for this Fall.  Best of luck Tommy and Jonathan!

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Scene of several recent solo’s, the route now has a team on it.  They climbed the first pitch, hauled kit and set up a ledge.  Maybe they are playing wall climbers or perhaps they are the real thing… we will soon see!
1)  Top of the first on Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Native Son:  Mark Hudon, not having had enough wall time lately, teamed up with Cheyne Lempe, and climbed the first two while I was shooting.  I assume they will do the difficult “Coral Sea” pitch and one more today.  They are protected from the weather by overhanging rock.
2)  Mark leading the roof, at the end of the first pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Cheyne making the starting moves on the second pitch.  Mark is known as “old sawed off” around here, and Cheyne’s great reach, youth and skill will be great assets to the team.  They are hoping to be off with just 3 bivies.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down:  Marek Raganowicz, a hero of Polish climbing, started his solo climb of the route right behind the Mutt and Jeff team above.  He is planning a solo climb of 8 days.

Mescalito:  The Austrian Guide team of Gerald and Ewalt climbed off the route this afternoon just as the weather deteriorated.  They are a strong team and did well.  Plus, they earned the much coveted “Stick of the Day”, earlier in the climb!
4)  Starting the traverse to the last pitch … notice the sawblade flake, that eats bags, in the lower center right, of the picture.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Leading the last pitch of the route as the weather caved.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Lower down the team of Max and Pete, representing Durango, Colorado, blasted on the route.  I spotted them climbing the Seagull  pitch this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Nose:  The upper part of the route saw several teams headed for the top this evening.  The 2 women from the 3D were at Camp 6 as I departed and have a ways to go to get off by dark.  
Lower down a team of two climbed from Camp 4 and were on the Pancake Flake as I left.  They may have come over from the 3D late yesterday.
7)  Style points…2.… determination points …10!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  The Muir Wall:  The Ninja man, Ben Erdmann, from Alaska,  climbed a couple more pitches today on some of the beautiful rock that the route is noted for.  He is climbing well, in spite of his lack of fashion sense!  He make the “good ledge for one”, at the base of the final dihedral, as I departed for the day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shield:  The Swiss couple continued up the route, passing Chicken Head ledge on the way to the final corner.  They may not make off in daylight but could get off by headlamps.
9)  Swiss leader, climbing above Chicken Head this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower Down, Mike and Mike climbed above the Triple Cracks today and just might make Chicken Head this evening.
10)  Big time wall climbing, high on the Shield!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Golden Gate:  The Brits, Dan and Callum, worked on the A5 traverse pitch this morning, and spent some time dogging it while I shot.  I think saw them climbing out, higher on the route, this afternoon.
11)  Doggin on the A5 traverse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lost World:  I saw Pete and Cory working higher on the route this afternoon.  Close behind were Steve and Heather Schneider, climbing fast to catch up with the guys.

Not quite ElCap… but worthy anyway… Mikey Schaffer and a cast of thousands are filming him climbing his new route on Middle Cathedral, over a period of several days.  This very difficult route took and lot of work and hard climbing over an extended period of time.  James Lucas is tagging along, belaying Mikey.  The world wonders when James will get his own project and not keep poaching others projects!  Ha, ha, James!
12)  Interesting climbing and rock on Mikey’s new route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Very quiet at the Bridge these days.  Tourons are getting scarce and so are climbers.  A good thing... as climbers should be climbing in stead of hanging around.  The “Convicts” and their two bros, from Durango, showed up this afternoon to get their shots.  They were psyched to have gotten “Bail of the Day” yesterday!
So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday, the 10th day of October, 2012.
Stay dry and stay tuned.
Ansel Evans signing off for today.