ElCap Report 10/08/11

ElCap Report 10/08/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Once again a perfect day to climb on ElCap.  The rock is getting the attention it deserves for a change.  The King has most of the action but other, seldom climbed routes are getting a workout too.  So throw off those shackles, plop down in your best, most comfortable chair, and come along for a trip on the Cap on a perfect Fall day in Yosemite.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!!

Zodiac:  The French team is moving along well and were last seen in the White Circle this afternoon.  Nipple in the morning!
French Team moving up on the Center pitch of the White Circle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trip:  I did get to talk to the Lithuanian team at the campfire last night and learned that they were soaked on the first day of the storm and it only got worse from there.  In the end they were so cold and wet and out of food that they decided to make a dash for the top as we figured they would.  The woman was NOT hurt or ill but just exhausted from the ordeal.  They were warm and eating massive quantities of food when I last saw them!

The team of two that was behind the team of three passed them today on the 7th pitch this afternoon.  So now maybe things will settle down for all of them.
Passing on the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

However things were not as expected and I was able to give the much sought after award to the guy in yellow……
STICK OF THE DAY!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NCS:  The team of Dana and Charley are making deliberate progress.  They had a difficult pendulum to do this morning that took some time and energy.  They were a pitch higher as I left this afternoon.
Morning on NCS.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NA Wall:  The solo, Karel Novacek, from Czech Republic, is climbing well and was finishing the 7th as I departed at 3pm.
Karel setting the belay on the North America Wall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SSPO:  Legendary climbers from BITD, Mark Hudon and Max Jones came in today and immediately hauled kit and fixed on this beautiful route.  Max hasn’t climbed anything in a thousand years but Hudon’s enthusiasm is contagious so you never know!

New Dawn:  Tommy Thompson and Jennifer Sonders are on the route and headed to LLL late in the day.  The guys on Reticent are waiting another day so as not to get in line on the crowded belays.
TT leading to the long corner that makes up the right side of ECT.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Nose:  Suddenly wildly popular, just like the old days, the route is loaded with wall style climbers and NIAD’s.
A fast moving, smartly dressed, mixed team of Antoine Pecher and Sandrine Levet, blew by everyone and eventually caught Simon and Martin above Pancake Flake this afternoon.
NIAD team crossing the Jardine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A very well dressed Swedish team of women climbed to Legs to Dolt this afternoon.  Remember folks… good climbers dress well!
Swedish women’s team on Dolt this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A team comprised of a Brit, Craig, and Dave, a Smith Rocks lad, climbed well after an early start to beat the masses to the punch.  They were on ECT with time to spare this afternoon.
Craig setting the belay before the pitch into ElCap Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

High above, the team of Simon and Martin climbed from ECT to Camp 5 by mid afternoon.  They were finally caught by the NIAD team on the pitch into 5.
NIAD’S taking the lead to Camp 5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Albatross:  Ken Bokelund and a partner are on the steep section of the route just left of the Shield Roof.  They are not dressed to specifications and will suffer serious beatings when I get hold of them later!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mammoth Freight lines:  Several teams were seen hauling kit up the fixed ropes to Heart Ledge this afternoon.  Always an unpleasant task, especially on a sunny day, it is none the less a popular alternative to hauling kit up the Freeblast.  You can see Piton Pete’s pile of kit on the left, as his partner had an attack of the nerves and retired.  Pete is looking for a partner for the Shield.  
Hauling freight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  I did see a team or two over there but none were setting any records and only one will survive I think
Almost done with the notorious Hollow Flake Pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brad/Mason route:  I did see Brad hauling some kit up Bermuda Dunes early pitches this afternoon.  Their route wants to go free up the lower section of this route and then join the section they have almost dialed higher up.  We will see.

In other news:  Lots of people at the Bridge today and lots to see from the Bridge.  Nice to have a lot of subjects to shoot!

So that’s the way it is, for this Saturday, the 8th day of October, 2011.
Party in camp tonight…
I’m outa here!!
Tom
 

Brad and Mason

Brad's Mom and Dad here, Following avidly. Hope you guys are wearing some bright clothing!

Double el cap ascent in 24.5 hours

Tim Klein and Jason Wells climbed Triple Direct and the Nose and are now back on solid ground. They started TD a little after 6 a.m. I believe and the Nose close to 6:45 last night, topping out after a combined 24 hours 30 minutes. Way to go guys! Not sure that this combo has been done before...Congrats to all who ascended this great wall yesterday!

Passing on the trip

What a great idea to have your ledge flagged on the day you pass another party! Good thinking! Wow, that bolt ladder on P8 of the trip must be terrifying!

Albatross

Tom

It's Ken Bokelund.

And thanks very much!

Go Mark and Max!

Best of luck to Mark and Max. Have fun guys!

Eric Barrett

Go T2 and Dana/Charie!

Great to see Tommy in the report. The NCS team is moving fast for how hard i understand those pitches are. Props to them. It sure looks like an intense route but Dana is the man for the job. KEEP CRUSHING!

-Jordan (from recent PO ascent noted above)

Yea!

Tom, great report as always!

NCS, GO GO GO! proud effort and best of luck !!!!!!! YEAH!!!!!! I know your recent PO Wall friends wish you the best!!

Neil, have fun up there on reticent! you are charging...yarrrr...and nice work on CD....sick!!!!!

Pete, a solo ascent of the Shield perhaps??? I bet it would only take about 3-4 haul bags, no big deal.

BriGuy
Brian Sadowsky