ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/04/12
By Tom Evans

Yo.. Much needed cooler weather has arrived.  Thus the Captain is getting some real action.  The Bigs have a lot of action on them and several of the other routes are getting hit too.  Today I didn’t set up the display at the Bridge as I needed some time off and it seems I am the only person willing to work for nothing.  I was super busy, shooting 240 shots, in excellent light.  It was serious fun!  So put aside your toils and take a break.  For a moment think of yourself as a climber and not some Cubicle Puke, chained to your desk… you are going to like these shots…. So let the fun begin!

Today’s ElCap Report …written just for you…unique in all the world!

Today was Moon Day!!!!!!!!!!  Yep, it comes in early October and it was a good one today.  However the wardrobes let me down!  A once in a year chance, and who shows up but drab, drab, drab.
1)  Moon Shot!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zodiac:  The upper east sides most popular route kept the tradition alive today.  The team of three climbed rapidly into the Circle and after a time passed the Solo, Alice, who celebrated her 39th today by taking a break until late afternoon.  
2)  Team of three… second man always jugs in a three man team.  I was scared shooting it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down the speedy team of locals, Josh McClure and Ryan Baker started off the deck on a push up the route.  They were in good form and were in the Circle after just a few hours climbing.
3)  Ryan leading the Nipple pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  The three man team passing Alice at the Mark of Zorro.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down the solo climber, Luis, fixed two.

Lost in America:  Mark and Max are moving right along.  
5)  Max leading the pitch before the infamous “Mandatory free pitch”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Mark dusting off the Free Pitch with little drama.  He likes to pose for the camera!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Trip:  The Ella and Andy show topped out today, late in the afternoon.
Ella must be getting real sick of jugging by now.  Here she adjusts her “chicken line” attachment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reticent:  Ben Doyle was out front today and lead a couple of hard looking pitches to just below Wino Tower.  I imagine they pushed on to that historic bivy.
8)  Ben doing a short but quick penji while Dave Allfrey leans in sympathy at the belay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  The Nose saw the wrath of NIAD’s and a Dolt run and a few baggers too.  Nick and Caroline topped out late in the day.  Too many parties to keep close track of.
9)  Cleaning the pitch to the Jardine Traverse this morning.  They went to ECT instead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Bored on the Boot later in the afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shield:  The Ranger’s brought out the Big Guns for this route.  Chris Bellino, Jack Hoeflick, and Ed Visnovske are getting it done up in the thin air of this spectacular route.  Probable more shots on the Headwall tomorrow.
11)  Jack and Chris at the belay above the Roof, as the sun came on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Ed leading the long pitch to the Groove.  So vast up there!!  Jack was leading the Groove pitch when I left.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe/Freerider:  A couple of Finland’s finest teams are over on the route and climbed above the Hollow Flake this afternoon.  They are not too speedy and I wonder how high they got.  Anders and Juha are the lead team followed by Adrian and Laski-olli.   I did see someone on the Spire this morning but I don’t know who.

In other news:  Another bag tossing incident occurred early today…. The bag was tossed from the top of the Dawn Wall and whistled by Ben and Dave on its way to the deck…. It came close to the men.  I later discovered that it was thrown by Eric Kinsey and his girlfriend after they spent the night on top.  When confronted the girl said, in so many words, that their "other bag"  was somewhere at the base of the cliff.  When confronted Eric bolted for his truck and drove off.  He was seen shortly afterward hurrying down from the Base of the Nose with a large haul bag.  Confront these people if you see them... they could have been murderer's today!  Fortunately Ben and Dave will live to climb another day.
 

So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 4th day of October,2012.
Moon Day!!!
Later Tom