ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/15/08 By Tom Evans

Yo... Another sweet day here! Perfect weather that is to continue for some time. The Nose is getting some workout as is Zodiac. So most of the shots you will see in this report will be from these routes. Unfortunately there is some kind of a controlled burn going on out to the west which is bringing in some smoke and making the skies a bit on the hazy side. Today's report is brought to you by the State of Montana, who's sons and daughters have brought you some good climbing on the big stone these past several days. So take in the slack, tie your pard off short, step out on the run-out lead because you are protected by destiny!!

It's on Bro... today's ElCap Report...

Zodiac: Bob and Ryan continue in the lead of the pack having dusted off the Nipple and the Mark of Zorro by the time I left and most likely will spend the night on Peanut Ledge.

Cleaning the Nipple pitch on Zodiac.

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/9CleaningtheNipplepitch.jpg[/IMG]

Leading the Mark of Zorro on Zodiac

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/10MarkofZorropitch.jpg[/IMG]

Starting to clean the Mark of Zorro pitch.

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/11CleaningMarkofZorropitch.jpg[/IMG]

The next team down, Gary and Eric, did the Black Tower and then pushed into the White Circle having reached the start of the Nipple pitch by 4pm. I think they will stay there tonight.

Gary starting the crux of the White Circle pitches

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/7GarystartingthecruxpitchWhiteCircl.jpg[/IMG]

Gary inside the "Jaws of Death"

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/8GaryintheJawsofDeath.jpg[/IMG]

Trip: The three man team was at the top of the bolt ladders by the time I left and I think will push for the top later this evening. A pretty good result for a team of three. Looked to me like they were having a good time up there.

Nose: Well there were quite a few parties higher on the route, several NIAD's and some guys from the 3D too. I don't know who most of them are but two of my posse were up there on a push. Aaron and Lance were up early and on the route by 7am. They climbed pretty well for a team whose members had not climbed the route together before and both of whom are coming off injuries. I last saw them at the start of the Great Roof at 4pm. Suck it up lads! You have a long night ahead.

Aaron Jones jammin above Dolt Tower.

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/1AaronJonesjamminontheNose.jpg[/IMG]

Hans and Yuji... NO! Wait a minute, it's Aaron and Lance short fixing on the Nose!

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/2HansandYujiNOwaitaminuteitsAaronan.jpg[/IMG]

lance lowering across the King Swing as Aaron looks on.

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/3LancecrossingtheKingSwing.jpg[/IMG]

Stepping out on the Great Roof pitch.

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/4SteppingoutontheGreatRoofpitch.jpg[/IMG]

Cleaning the Great Roof

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/5CleaningtheGreatRoof.jpg[/IMG]

Leading out on Pancake Flake

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/6PancakeFlake.jpg[/IMG]

Golden Gate: I did see the Norwegian team encamped at the base of the Golden Desert pitch. I also saw some other climbers jugging lines just below there... I don't know just what is going on... should I make up something??!

Salathe: I did see a team that was at the Block yesterday afternoon climb to the Roof pitch and over it in the late morning. I last saw them on Long Ledge later in the day.. they could have climbed off if they wanted.

Hanging off the Roof Pitch of the Salathe

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/12HangingofftheSalatheRoof.jpg[/IMG]

Never Never Land: I looked out at Timbuktu this morning and saw the replacement team still on the ledge with no one going higher... who knows what is up there? I sure don't!

In other news: The cafe is full of tourons and Curry refugees in the mornings now and table space is at a premium. The routes on the Big Stone are open and the weather is cooperating. So..... where are you Bro? Get out here now... that's an order Puke!!! This has been a strange Fall as the normally colorful leaves are still mostly green. Must have something to do with the amount of rainfall this year. I talked to some Half Domers who reported that the spring at the base has long since dried up. Plus it is as cold as a meat locker up there for most of the day, so if that one is on your list you might want to give it a rest until Spring.

So that's the way it is, for this the 15th day of October, 2008.

Hasta la pasta! ECP's