ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/14/07

 By Tom Evans

Yo... Man was it ever a nice day here in the Valley... lots of traffic here at the bridge, of the vehicle variety that is, but even so it was really nice here. Shirt sleeve weather, climbers going up, Tourons learning what the deal really is on the Cap.. really sweet!! If you bailed a couple of days ago because you thought the weather was over... well then you fucked up big time! Anyway today’s report is brought to you by Tony in the Yos. garage who changed my flat tire on the van this morning... what a nice guy he was... big smile, cheerful, friendly... this place is infectious with happiness... Today’s ECR.

Eagles Way: You remember Josh from the team of Ian and Josh who have done some good stuff on the cap this year and avoided the walk of shame several times by clever excuses? Well, he has several pitches fixed on this route and I saw new bags at the top of the third today... didn't see him but then again I wasn't looking...

Mescalito: Yes!! It is true! The three man team including T2 reached the top today around 3pm. T2 had the last lead and cruised it ... Nice job lads!! I'm sure Mrs. T2 is relieved and proud too...

Nose: Tony, from Oklahoma, and his partner, Kevin, climbed NIAD today and were last seen above the glowering spot around 2:30pm going strong for the top... looks like Tony was the man today on the sharp end of the rope... pleasure to watch and photograph as these guys knew better than to wear crappy colors... Lower down a team of two were having some problems with the KS and were not the fastest movers to date but were getting the job done... last saw them a pitch above the kind swing... Behind them I noticed a guy and gal... he was dressed in a nice yellow shirt and helmet and she in a pretty powder blue outfit.. very nice.. He had a familiar look to his style and sure enough when I zoomed in it turned out to be Miles Smart and wife, Liz, above ECT. I think it may be her first trip up the Big Stone... anyway, an old pro like Miles showed his stuff by styling the KS as well as anyone I have seen this season... they are on the leisure tour and make for some nice photos.. they know how to dress for the Cap...have a good time you two!!

West of the Nose.. didn't see anyone on the Salathe but know that Alex and John are spending a rest day on the block before going for the headwall free in the morning.. good luck guys.. Did catch a nice side view of PTPP jugging way out in space with his junk show nearby high on Horse Chute a pitch below where it joins Dihedral.. got some nice shots of the lad.. Must say that the junk show was a lot more subdued than usual... maybe he is seeing the light?

In other news... went by the sugar maple tree on the way back from shooting today... well ... it is over now and the leaves are mostly gone with just a few dried up ones clinging to the branches... I love that old tree... I wondered as I looked at it, "how many more times will I see my old friend in full color?" In the Autumn of my life now I treasure even more the great days here in the valley and the wonderful friendships that we climbers share here.... fall is the most magic time here for me as the days are crisp and the colors vibrant and of course the light is just wonderful up on the great cliff... Many an hour I have spent staring at the great wall and somehow I never seem to tire of it and each night when I look at my images I feel that sense of wonder that I felt 50,000 images ago.. a true love affair with no disappointments!

Anyway another day has closed out here and the climbers on the great cliff have reached their goals for the day... some are settling in for an unforgettable night on the Captain and others are leaving the top, tired but happy to have shared some time with the magnificent jewel of American climbing... they will be heading down for a shower and some good food and good cheer or they will be heading home to loved ones who anxiously await their return and may wonder just what drove them away from their families to the heights... well I know their motivation as it is the same one that brings me back to this valley every spring and fall to record and report on the events here, and to share in a small way their triumphs and disappointments... as they say these days..... It's all good!!

Signing off for this the 14th day of October 2007.. on another treasured day...Tom Evans