ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 9/29/08

By Tom Evans

Yo… Kind of funky weather today. Cooler with lots of clouds, which was great for my shooting and for the climbers too. Lightning, and thunder booming up behind Half Dome and some sprinkles down in the Valley seemed to be about it. It threatened above the Cap but never materialized. Today’s report is brought to you by Hans and Yuji who entertained us today with a four hour tune up on the Nose this morning. So here it is fresh off the computer just for you… Today’s ElCap Report

Zodiac: You know those nicely dressed guys from yesterday that I was happy to see on the rock? Bailed. I did see a team climb to the Top of the third and someone climb to the top of pitch two. Alex Honnold and Sean Leary climbed the entire route today while working on a free ascent. They were in cruise control but I think the threatening weather limited the time they had to work some of the more difficult sections.

Alex works the center of the circle while Sean belays.

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/AlexHonnoldandSeanLearyworkingonfre.jpg[/IMG]

Kaos: Pete and Kate moved a pitch higher this afternoon and should soon be on ZM. They are managing the bags very well, are in excellent spirits and seem to be having a good time.

Pete gets the bags ready to be hauled on Kaos.

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/PetemovingthebagsoffthebelayonKaos.jpg[/IMG]

The Ranch: Alex topped out in early afternoon today after a very nice ascent that ended up on the Sea and last two of the NA Wall.

The Sea: The two guys who were sitting at the start of the Hook or Book pitch late yesterday … Bailed.

Mescalito: The lads climbed to the Bismarck ledge late in the day. One of the best ledges on the Cap will be their home tonight. Reticent: The solo was working on the 3rd pitch above Lay Lady Ledge today.

Nose: As mentioned above, Hans and Yuji did a practice run this morning in about 4 hours. They are planning on a speed attempt on Friday and perhaps again on next Tuesday. They passed a lot of parties who took pictures and chatted with them as they went through. Jay and Jeanette climbed to and did the King Swing this afternoon and I expect they will spend the night in the Grey Bands as that is a much better ledge system than the lousy one at Camp 4. Above them is a team of 4 (mistakenly called a team of three yesterday) who were working up to the Great Roof when I left today. Below and heading to Dolt Tower was a team of 3 including a woman. Who are they?  The route is relatively empty.

 Yuji sends the King Swing as Hans belays and Jay and Jeanette look on.

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Hans and Yuji on the Great Roof.

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Jeanette lowers across the King Swing to join Jay.

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I did not see anyoneTo the West of the Nose. There are some parties going on the 3D, Salathe and some other far west routes in a day or so.

In other news: Nice and quiet at the bridge today, mostly because the weekend is over. Hans and Yuji stopped by to hang out with the bridge rats. Several other climbers drifted in and out. I am posting some pics of recent visitors below along with some of today’s regulars. The weather looks uncertain but thus far has been confined to the high country. I wouldn’t want to be in the Meadows as there are many dark clouds and booming thunder with lightning up there.

Bridge Rats: James Yuji Dave Matt Hans Bullwinkle Aaron Eric Patti

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/BridgeRatsJamesYugiDaveMattHansBull.jpg[/IMG]

Mike Ousley and Ammon McNeeley hanging at the Bridge

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Yuji and Hans and my new 800mm Canon L Lens Sweet!!

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Dave Turner and friend at the Bridge today.

[IMG]http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/elcap-pics/DaveTurner andfriendattheBridge.jpg[/IMG]

Kind of a slow day… This will probably be the last report for a while but I will still get some shooting done from time to time. So that’s the way it is for this the 29th day of September 2008. I’m out of here… ECP’s