|Submitted by Tom Evans on Sat, 09/29/2007 - 18:59|
ElCap Report 9/29/07
By Tom Evans
YO... beautiful day here.. strong sun with a cool wind from the west.. looked like the guys on the Cap were in jackets most of today. Anyway, get on your dancing shoes and warm up because this report is going to take you into the heart of the adventure world of Yosemite, where the footwork is delicate and the chalk is ready for those sweaty hands... Here it comes straight from the bolt kit of the "Mad Bolter" who stopped by the bridge today after making a trash run up to the base of the Cap. Here it is .... Today’s ElCap Report;..
Zodiac: The two man team was seen climbing the nipple pitch early in the morning and heading for peanut ledge later in the afternoon... off tomorrow.. There were several people crowding around the base of this route this morning late and it seems that the piece of crap so called "Direct start" was the object of their interest even though the regular first and second pitches are far better climbing and without them you haven't really done the route now have you?? Andy and Karen are talking about going back to the rock and this route may be their target.. good luck again kids!!
Lost in America: That team is moving right along and were seen about 4 pitches from the top as the afternoon lengthened. He leads everything and she cleans and they seem to be having a good time.
Iron Hawk: The Korean team on this route is about to do the fun 5.9 X pitches, maybe late this afternoon and if so then they just might have it finished tomorrow.
PO Wall: This team of three has been moving right along and are in the Bearing straits now. They are moving to the leader out three man system now and just may do the route in 5 days. Got some nice shots of them....
Mescalito: The team of two was seen starting the last pitch around 3pm today and are most likely off as I type these words.. pretty fast ascent here folks. On the distaff side, Mutt and Jeff are plugging along and had started leading the second pitch of the day when I departed to the west around 3pm. They look confident and are just doing the pitches one at a time.
Nose: Did see a NIAD team or at least a team that is taking so little stuff that they had better be a NIAD!! They were cruising along but somehow were only just starting the gray bands at three and one needs to be on Pancake flake to do a comfortable NIAD ascent. Plus there are two parties above them. Saw the team from yesterday, who seemed to be having some problem, in the evening climbing to the Alcove around 3:30pm so if all continues the same they should be off soon. There is a party of three that came over on the 3D. They climbed the great roof and are established a camp 5 now and will most likely stay there tonight.
Shield: The last of the two parties on this route were seen hauling bags on the last pitch when I left. Man these guys know how to dress and thus will be the recipients of some nice photos when they get down.
Jolly Roger: EE and Bill were at the same level as the traverse crack that cuts the upper face this afternoon and they looked cold with big jackets and hoods on.
Salathe: Did see a team of three go over the roof and headwall this afternoon and they will be on long ledge most likely. The entire route above Hollow flake is empty when they depart tomorrow.
Never Never Land: Those two women were a pitch below THKGD ledge late today and will be off tomorrow if they wish...
In other news ... beautiful day here today but a little chilly out of the sun. Locals came and went. Wayne Willoby and J. Bachar hung for a few moments. Long enough for John tell a couple of Charley Porter stories that were pretty damn funny. John needs to write a book!! Also Tom Rohr, aka the mad bolter, stopped by to tell some of the most corny jokes on record here at the bridge. He was in town for the clean up and to see the Huber Movie in which he is interviewed. I did make it down to the west side today and found it mostly empty... fixed lines.. empty.. Muir above Mammoth ... empty... Salathe.. empty as noted. Even the Nose is almost deserted for this time of year. Hey ... now is your chance to get on whatever route you are dreaming about. Anyway... that's the way it is for this 29th day of Sept 2007.. take care and enjoy these days as fall is a fleeting time...
Out of here ... Tom Evans