El Cap Report 06/11/08

ElCap Report 6/11/08

 By Tom Evans

Yo… very nice day here today. Perfect weather once again. Unfortunately, there was little action on the Captain to keep the interest high. So most of the day was spend just hanging around in the shade and talking shit with other loungers. The Tourons were thick as ticks on a dogs ear. And, to compound the problem, one of our “newbee” Colorado lads, you know the one, was answering the dreaded Touron question, “Are there any climbers up there?” With “why yes there are!” Instead of “No, not at this time.” Thus making them stop in their tracks and start a little game of “explain to me everything you know about climbing and show me all the climbers on the rock through that wonderful telescope.” When the Tourons departed, the lad received a through tongue lashing in the proper way to deal with Tourons at the bridge. Next time his mouth will be duct taped closed and he will be tied to a nearby tree! Today’s report is brought to you by Amanda, Lee Cossey’s fiancé, who was nice enough to bring me some healthy food for lunch and faithfully stay to watch “her man” even though he was doing nothing but sitting on a ledge most of the afternoon. Today’s Report.


Zodiac:  Lee and Ben Cossey are back on this route to give it a serious go via free climbing. This morning they easily climbed the first 7 pitches and are entrenched on the ledge at the top of the Black Tower pitch, for the bivy. Lee is once again wearing that horrible green shirt, something about using the video from the other attempt and thus having to wear the same clothing. On the other hand Ben, the seemingly more dashing of the dynamic Aussie climbing duo, was decked out with a red shirt and matching pants. The lad is actually visible from the Sidney Harbor Bridge, back home! Can you guess who will get my camera’s attention?

A well dressed Ben Cossey on Free Zodiac early today.

Ben Cossey cranking hard above the Black Tower Zodiac

Cossey brothers setting up the portaledge on top of Black Tower pitch

Rumor has it that a mixed team of Montana climbers is about to depart on this route. One, formerly famous, with some wall experience and the other a strong climber but clueless about aid. Should make for an interesting ascent.

Nose: I did see a fast team climbing up the Boot when I arrived, going for a one day ascent. Although I have spoken at length with one of the climbers, Jessie, an experienced ElCap climber and former NIAD ascender. They are both sporting black shirts. Black shirts!!!!!… the simple equation is … BS=NP.. But I did shoot a few anyway. They looked like they were on the schedule of a sub 10 hour climb. Shane is Jessie’s partner. Sweet, climbing lads! Later in the day I saw the team with the two red shirts, from past days reports, climb to the top of the route. Nice job lads! Lower down the NIAD guys mentioned above passed through two teams of slower climbers on wall schedules. Both of those teams are moving steadily along. The trailing team had some problems with the KS and, since we were starved for something to see, we all watched with interest and vocalized loudly when things went wrong or right. We cheered wildly when they succeeded!

NIAD team passing another team above Texas Flake, Nose route

Jessie doing the Bristol Stomp on the King Swing Nose Route


Stuck doing the Iron Cross a little high on the King Swing Nose route

Son, you are following the wrong Tan Band! King Swing, Nose route

Salathe: I think I saw something over there but my fading memory can not recall if it was a reality or a wish.

In other news: Like I said above, there were a load of climbers, family and friends of climbers here today. Gene Malone stopped with his wife and girls in tow for a quick visit. It was a lazy day here. Simon was back from soloing Mescalito and was enjoying just resting. The two guys from the Zodiac push, Matt and friend, were here too. There was much talk of things done but not much about things to be done! The breeze and shade were enough to keep most of us mesmerized, content to just look at the great rock.

Bridge rats hanging at the bridge today.

I took some shots but nothing to brag about. I will try to find some worthy of the ElCap Report. Some of the regulars were lamenting the decline in “donated food and drink” that have been showing up here. A few of the more bitter turned on me with the remark “It’s all your fault Tom, if only you hadn’t posted that thing about a diet and not wanting beers brought here, we would eating high on the hog! But Noooo, you just had to open your big mouth!!” So to protect myself from a knife in the back, I hereby rescind any and all remarks I may have made in the past or will make in the future about not bringing masses of carbon based consumables to the bridge. Feel free to bring anything you want!!! I hear from Gene that the legendary “Ottawa Doug” is about to materialize out of the space-time continuum . Thank God for that, as Doug is a man who really appreciates the scene here and will surely bring provisions to stave off the impending doom and possibly save my life from the mutinous minions who infest the bridge environs.

With all that in mind… that is the way it is for this the 11th day of June 2008. This is your man with the hand on the pulse of ElCap adventure signing off for now….

Bye Bye.. ECP’s