ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/11/07

 By Tom Evans

Yo.. well here it is Monday again and you have just had a bad day at the job and are looking for a little distraction... so unbutton that collar, kick off the shoes and loosen the too tight belt... get a cold one and flop down in your favorite chair next to the computer because here it comes... straight from Ranon and Amee who just rapped the Salathe/Free Rider with the report so you could have a few moments of entertainment in an otherwise forgetful day... from the Aquarian to the top of peanut ledge on Zodiac comes today’s report....

Zodiac... the guys were leading the pitch above peanut when I left this afternoon and have enough light to get off the route this evening if they want to... and they most likely want to!! Yesterday my friends from Germany Peter and Martina fixed ropes to the top of 4 and will be going on the route tomorrow if all goes according to plan...

The Ranch... had a chat with Pete and Kate on the bridge to adventure today as they went to do the 2nd pitch on this difficult route... they are psyched that Pete didn’t crater like the last time he was on the route... they had a pile of crash pads at the start just in case!! I think they are actually starting for good tomorrow... who knows?

Mescalito... the two man team threatening to do the route actually showed up today and were climbing the seagull pitch off of Stork ledge when I last saw them...

Nose... did see a legion of recruits on sickle ledge this morning fighting hand to hand for the limited space on the ledge... later saw some climbers on the first pitch of the stovelegs in the late afternoon...the rest of the route is empty.. talked to two young lads who are going at 2am to do the route in a push... dressed to the nines they were too...

Jolly Roger: chatted with Eric E. and Bill who were headed off to the climb with a few fixed... Mike is in the party too and this threesome will no doubt get the job done in fine style..

Salathe Free Rider... talked with Jean in the cafe and Anna at the bridge today about their recent ascent in rather cold conditions...both very enthusiastic about the route... Saw the 3 Spanish guys top out this morning late... also caught a glimpse of Micah D. coming back to the block today from higher.. don’t know what is up with them... Saw another party climbing to the block with some nice maroon pants on the leader... Chris is that you? Those pants have been up the nose and shield lately...if that is you Chris... Watched two very inspiring tries at freeing the Salathe headwall today by one Dean Potter... the man looked really strong in the morning attempt and moved with grace and power up those steep cracks... shook out for a while below the steepest crux just below the hole belay and gave it a go... fell at about he same place both times.. but it was quite an effort and we here at the bridge were spellbound by the climbing... props to Timmy O who was the man on the belay both times...and the film crew and Ivo... wonder if they will give it another shot tomorrow... Dean has the most incredible reach and poise on that pitch... the footwork was spot on and he appeared unphased by the huge air he was working over... certainly the free climbing highlight of the day!!

In other news:  Well the day was a fine one with crisp air and a wonderful blue sky... the breeze was steady from the west and it was quite comfortable...The bridge was quiet for some time until some folks gathered in the afternoon and we soon had a small crowd there to watch the efforts on the Salathe and other routes... posse member Matt is leaving for home tomorrow and will be missed here at the bridge...A couple of the teams just off the Nose were here basking in the glory and Anna, Amee, Ranon just off Salathe were here too... nice seeing the monkeys safely down to the bridge... Ragan from the Solo of SSPO was by for a time this morning sporting a new cowboy hat that seemed to work for the man in spite of his 46 years of age... Ottawa Doug... you better watch out as Ragan is coming back to get the oldest solo record from you.... maybe in the fall! Anyway it was a fine day to be here in the valley and we wish all of you had the opportunity to be here too... So the Van is packed and I have ambled my way up the invisible fixed lines to the Heartbreak Hotel high up on the face of the Captain... hope your day was worthwhile and a good one to remember.. ours surely was...

Later ElCap Tom