June 2009

ElCap Report 6/05/09

ElCap Report 6/5/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Well our luck ran out with the weather today.  I heard the pitter patter on my tent, late in the night and knew the run was over. The guys on the SE Face played the smart bet and are warm and dry as the steepness has sheltered them from the rains.  However, the rain has been light, but longer in duration than those of recent times.  No big down pours have occurred thus far.  I went down to the bridge at 10am and scoped it out.  The Shield boys were breaking down their ledge as I arrived and were soon leading toward Chickenhead ledge, where they are most likely interned.  The guys on Mescalito were also out in the weather but looked cozy in their ledge and have made no move to get out and climb the two pitches to the Bismarck Ledge.

ElCap Report 6/04/09

ElCap Report 6/04/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Cold and windy here in the valley with a huge chance of rain today… but of course, no rain!  The bridge was crowded today with Tourons and climbers alike.  Nose and Salathe are still devoid of any sign of life, while most of the action continues to be on the upper east side of the SE Face.
It was very much like an October day here and everyone is wondering where all the forecast rain went.  Today’s report is brought to you by a refreshing family of German Baptists who came by the bridge and just couldn’t believe what was going on up on the Cap and on a slack line from the bridge to the edge of the river.  Everyone  seemed in great spirits today and we all had a good time.

ElCap Report 6/03/09

ElCap Report 6/03/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… another great day for climbing on the Captain.  We had cloud cover all day long and for just a moment, at 2pm, it misted very briefly.  I don’t think the climbers on the Cap even knew it happened.  The Zodiac was the center of attention as the Nose and Salathe languished in disuse.  The weather continues to confound but not enforce.  The cool weather is a boon for water conservation and everyone seems to be headed up, not down.  So don’t be discouraged.  Even though the forecast is doom and gloom the reality is anything but.  I know some of you want to do the Nose and guess what?  The Nose is totally empty…. The Salathe is totally empty… The West side is completely empty.  Hell, what else can I do for you Pukes, I’ve cleared the whole SW Face of ElCap just for you, so show up or shut up!!

ElCap Report 6/02/09

ElCap Report 6/02/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… another nice day of cool and cloud… the Nose emptied out and the Zodiac filled up.  I think it wanted to rain but didn’t, just to piss off all the climbers who are sitting around bitching about the weather!  This has been a strange spring, more like early spring than early June.  I remember one day, long ago, when I was at Pratt’s camp in C4...  he looked at the skies and said to Tom Bauman, “let’s go do the Muir, this weather is perfect”.  That was a day like today.  They went and made the 3rd ascent if I recall correctly.  So… don’t take my word for it, take Chuck’s!!  Three days in a row with no real rain on the Captain. 

ElCap Report 6/01/09

ElCap Report 6/1/09
By Tom Evans
Yo.. Wow, two nice days in a row for climbing on the big stone!!  The crews have responded by heading up on the routes.  Three parties now on Zodiac, one on Virginia, 7 on the Nose, one on Mescalito, the old dads on the PO,  a team fixed on the NA, one on the Shield, and some more staging on the Salathe.  I think everyone is sick of just sitting around when it only rains a few minutes of the day.  It was great for the photography as the high clouds kept the shadows off the Captain and I could get all the rock details and climbers, normally deep shadows… Sweet!!

ElCap Report 5/31/09

ElCap Report 5/31/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… well there was no rain all day while I was at the bridge and strangely there were no climbers either.  The only action was people who were already on the wall.  There was one party on the Nose and one on SSPO.  A couple of teams with high powered climbers are headed to the Shield.  The bridge was really quiet all day.  We were expecting rain but it never came.
Today’s report is brought to you by Doug and Melissa who hung out all day. 
Today’s ECR just for you…

Zodiac:  I did see a team of two guys fixing the first late in the day.  It looked dry over there so this is a good time to get on it.